TR Masterklas - zadaci 3 i 4 / TR Masterclass - tasks 3 and 4

Ovo će biti kratak post, bez mnogo reči. Danas imam da pokažem dva nova rada, gde je cilj da se odeći doda volumen i trodimenzionalnost kroz nabore i valove.

This is a short post, with not many words. I have two works to show you today. The task was to add a volume and dimension to a garment, using gathers and flounces. 

Zmijsko telo / Snake's body

Nestrpljivo čekajući sledeći zadatak za TR masterklas, morala sam nečim da uposlim ruke, pa sam uzela da šijem haljinu. Trenutno izgleda ovako - fale joj rajsferšlus, rukavi, postava, porub. Haljina je zamalo završila u kanti, jer sam bila nezadvoljna njenim izgledom pre no što je prošla kroz ozbiljan makeover proces.

While impatiently waiting for the next TR Masterclass task, I had to make my hands busy with something, so I started sewing a dress. Currently it looks like this - it needs a zipper, sleeves, lining, hemming. The dress almost ended in a trash, because I hated haw it looked before the extreme makeover.

Ne znam da li se vama dešava da ste preplavljeni gomilom ideja, i da ne možete da se odlučite koju da odaberete i realizujete. Mene ovakvi momenti povremeno dohvate i u takvim situacijama najčešće odustanem od bilo kakvog rada, jer nisam u stanju da se skoncentrišem. Međutim, ovaj put sam MORALA nešto da šijem (to je ona grozničava potreba da uposlite ruke, kao da vam život zavisi od toga), pa sam uspela da odaberem, čini mi se, najgoru od svih ideja koje su mi se vrzmale po glavi. 

Dakle, htela sam da napravim haljinu od materijala koji imam već neko vreme. Tkanina, kao što vidite, ima zmijski print, koji je za moj ukus pomalo riskantan i spada u kategoriju nezgodnih dezena, tj. ukoliko se ne iskoristi na dobar način. Nisam znala kako da malo "umirim zmiju" sve dok nisam, pukim slučajem, stavila materijal do maslinasto - braonkastog pamuka koji sam nedavno kupila. Tada mi je sinulo da bi par detalja u kontrastnom materijalu umirilo divljinu printa. 

Do you have those moments when you're overwhelmed with a bunch of ideas and you can't decide which one to materialize? Well, I suffer from these moments from time to time, and in these situations I usually give up on any work, due to lack of concentration. However, this time I HAD to sew something (you know that agonizing need to keep your hands busy, as if your life depend on it), so I managed to pick the worst of all ideas that I had.

So, I wanted to make a dress using a fabric I had had in my stash for some time. The fabric, as you see, has a snake print, which is IMHO a bit risky and in a category of those fabrics that don't forgive wrong choice of garment style. I had no idea how to "tame the snake" until I, quite coincidentally,  put the fabric next to the olive-brownish cotton from a recent purchase. It was then that I realized that a few details in a contrasting fabric would calm down a bit the wilderness of the print.

Sa tom idejom na pameti, krenula sam da smišljam kroj koji bi najbolje ukombinovao dva materijala. I, u svemu tome, uspela dam da odaberem najgori mogući :-). Krenula sam od Nora haljine, tj. njene varijacije koju sam šila prošle godine. Varijacija je lepa, nemojte pogrešno da me razumete, ali ne u kombinaciji koju sam ja odabrala. Iskrojila sam rukave od jednobojnog materijala, a prednje i zednje delove bluze od tkanine sa printom. Ova kombinacija ni na koji način nije umirila zmjski print, već je ga je naglasila na užasan način. Izgledala sam kao da sam ukombinovala Star Trek uniformu sa zmijskom kožom. Nimalo elegantno niti ženstveno, već kostimirano. 

Having that idea on my mind, I started thinking of a pattern that would combine the two fabrics the best. While brainstorming of it, I managed to choose the worst possible pattern :-). I started with the Nora dress (that is - its variation), that I made last year. Don't get me wrong, I like the variation, but not in the combination I chose. I cut the sleeves out of the plain fabric and the bodice out of the snake print. The combination did not tame the snake print, but enhanced  it instead, in an awful way. I looked as if I mixed Star Trek uniform with a snake skin. Not elegant nor feminine, but costumed like.

Potpuno užasnuta rezultatom, napravila sam haos od dnevne sobe dok nisam našla rešenje. U par navrata apsolutne histerije, haljina je zamalo završila u kanti. Ne bi mi ovo bio prvi neuspeli poduhvat. Imam ih zapravo mnogo više nego što to možda izgleda, jer izbegavam da pišem o sopstvenom fijasku - previše sam sujetna da bih priznala da mi se i to dešava :-). Ipak, u ovom slučaju, nisam želela da bacim materijal koji mi se jako sviđao, i koji sam mesecima merkala za neku lepu haljinu. To nije bila opcija koju sam sebi mogla da dopustim. I tako, haos u sobi je smirio haos u glavi... Našla sam kroj koji sam mogla da ukombinujem sa iskrojenim delovima Nora haljine - Burda 5/2011, #128. Izmenila sam Nora haljinu, pa sam izmenila varijaciju Nora haljine, pa prešla na treći kroj, koji sam takođe menjala.... sve u svemu, ova haljina biće pravi bućkuriš, ili kako na engleskom zovu ovakvke krojeve - Frankenpattern.

Bučkuriš ili ne, meni se sada haljina sviđa! A to je najbitnije... Na slikama možete videti kako stoji na lutki. Iznenađujuće, na slikama se ne vidi koliko je lutki ova haljina velika - u struku i kukovima. Velika joj je i na grudima, ali sam navukla na lutku brushalter sa punjenjem, pa sam joj malo popunila poprsje.

Sve u svemu, za koji dan planiram da završim haljinu, nadam se da će biti gotova za subotnji rođendan na koji idem.

Being completely horrified by the result, I made a chaos in my living room until I reached a solution to the problem. In a few moments of total hysteria, the dress almost ended in a trash bin. This wouldn't be my first failure. Actually, I have more waders than you might think, but I avoid writing about them - I guess I am too wain to admit I have these moments too :-). However, in this case I didn't want to toss away the fabric I liked so much; that wasn't an option. So, the chaos in my living room stopped the chaos in my head... I found a pattern I could combine with the cut out pieces of the Nora dress - BWOF 5/2011, #128. I altered the Nora dress, then I changed the variation of the Nora dress, then I used a third pattern that was also altered... all in all, this dress will be a true Frankenpattern.

Frankenpattern or not, I like the dress now! That's the most important thing.. You can see on pictures how the dress looks on my dress form. Surprisingly, you can't see how big the dress is on the dummy. 

I plan finishing the dress in a couple of days, hopefully by Saturday, as I planned wearing it on a birthday party I'm going to.

TR masterklas zadatak br. 2 / TR masterclass task no. 2

Obećala sam da ću vas infromisati o napretku TR masterklasa. Drugi zadatak je podrazumevao  da u spostvenoj interpretaciji primenimo osnovne TR principe. Inspiracija mi je bila farba koja se razliva niz telo. Potražila sam par sličica na netu kako bih dobila pravi oblik koji me zanimao, nalik na donje dve ilustacije.

I promised I'd inform you about the TR masterclass progress. The second task was making a personal interpretation by using basic TR principles. An inspiration was a paint that melts down the body. I looked on internet for some pictures that would give me the shape I needed, like the two illustarions bellow.

 

A evo kako izgleda moja bluza (tj. njena desna polovina). Ova ideja mi se jako dopala i već zamišljam letnju haljinu sa ovakvim detaljima.

And here's how my blouse looks (that is - its right half). I liked the idea very much and I'm envisioning a summer dress with these details already.

A evo i kroja, ako vas zanima. Izgleda mi kao morska trava ili neka meduza :-).

And here's the pattern, in case you're interested. It looks like sea grass to me, or like some jellyfish :-).

Dopuna tekstu, kao odgovor na Klodinino pitanje: ovaj model nije napravljen tehnikom našivanja aplikacije preko postojeće bluze, već crni i zeleni delovi čine kroj. Dakle, svi oblici koje vidite su nastali spajanjem sva krojna dela u jednu celinu. A evo dokaza.

Update to reply to Claudine's question: the model wasn't made by sewing an applique onto a darted bodice, but instead the black and green panels form a pattern. Therefore, all the shapes you see were made by sewing two pattern pieces into one whole. And here't the proof.

Ovaj kurs me jako inspiriše. Osećam se kao dete, jer je sve kreativna igra. Jedva čekam da vidim šta je sledeći zadatak!

I am very inspired by the course. I feel like a child, since everything seems to be a creative play. I can't wait to see what the next task will be!

Par informacija o krojačkoj lutki

To English language readers: this post is related to dress form stores located in Belgrade, Serbia. I suppose you're not interested in these information, so I won't translate them to English.

Posle današnjeg posta par čitateljki me pitalo gde sam kupila krojačku lutku, pa evo par informacija na tu temu.

Moja lutka je kupiljena u Stilo Enterijerima, TC Piramida. Kostala je sa PDV-om oko 9.300din. Imaju samo jednu velicinu, 36-38. Lutka je od stiropora, presvucena triko materijalom i može se podešavati visina, tj. njen položaj na stalku. Više informacija možete naći ovde.

Vihor Trade takođe prodaje krojačke lutke, podesive za različite veličine. Cena je 16.200din. Razmišljala sam se da dam malo više novca i kupim podesivu lutku, ali nisam mogla da nađem informaciju o tome da li je lutka od plastike ili nekog mekšeg materijala. Ovo mi je bitno zbog mogućnosti da ubadam špenadle u lutku. Na žalost, nisam dobila odgovor na email koji sam im poslala, pa nisam htela da rizikujem. 

Transformation & Reconstruction Masterclass

Dragi čitaoci, imam sjajne vesti da podelim sa vama. Upisala sam se na online masterklas kurs koji vodi Shingo Sato lično! Pre desetak dana sam na Facebook-u videla da Sato formira novu grupu za masterklas i rešila da se prijavim. Kurs je namenjen modnim kreatorima i studentima dizajna, tako da sam se pitala da li ću se kvalifikovati, budući da nemam formalno obrazovanje iz dizajna. Zamislite moje oduševljenje kada sam dobila potvrdan odgovor! Kurs traje 3 meseca, tj. 90 dana i, zamislite, besplatan je! Baš sam imala sreće. Oni koji prate ovaj blog malo duže, znaju da sam nekoliko puta ostajala bez teksta pred Satovim majstorijama, a čak sam se i oprobala u TR (Transformation & Reconstruction) tehnici pre dve godine, kada sam sašila ovu suknju.

Dear readers, I have some great news to share with you. I enrolled to an online masterclass held by Shingo Sato himself! Some 10 days ago I saw on Facbook Sato formed a new masterclass group and decided to apply for it. The course is intended for fashion designers and design students, and I wondered if I qualified for it since I had no design education. Imagine my thrill when I got the positive answer! The course lasts 3 months, 90 days to be more precise, and it's free of charge! I was so lucky. Those of you who've been following this blog since I started it know that Sato made me speechless more than once with his craftsmanship, and I tried myself the TR (Transformation & Reconstruction) technique two years ago when I made this skirt.

Međutim, ova priča nije prošla bez peripetija. Kada sam se prijavila za kurs, imala sam već isplanirano putovanje u Rim, na medeni mesec (o tome ću kasnije), ali kako je najavljeno da će zadaci startovati od 17. Novembra, sračunala sam da imam sasvim dovoljno vremena da, po povratku s puta (dan pre početka kursa), kupim krojačku lutku, kao i materijal koji mi treba. Zamislite moj šok kada sam na putu shvatila da najkasnije do 16. Novembra moramo da postavimo slike skrojenog osnovnog modela za bluzu bez rukava, inače ćemo biti diskvalifikovani! Počela sam manično da jurim sve moguće informacije o tome gde mogu najlakše da nabavim krojačku lutku (otuda moj prethodni post). Bila sam u iskušenju da donesem jednu iz Italije, ali mislim da bi bio prevelik maltretman doneti lutku kući avionom. Zato sam se odlučila da ipak pazarim u Beogradu, a angažovala sam roditelje (hvala mama i tata!) da obave kupovinu umesto mene, kako bih pravo iz aviona sela za mašinu. Inače, pomenutu radnju iz prethodnog posta sam našla poslednje večeri u Rimu, kada su moji roditelji već imali lutku kod sebe. Nisam želela da dođem u situaciju da se možda pokajem, pa nisam ni ušla u prodavnicu da vidim šta sve imaju u ponudi.

However, this story had its twists and turns. When I applied for the course I had already had planned a trip to Rome, Italy, for a honeymoon (I'll write about this later), and since the course announcement said the course would start on November 17th, I figured I had enough time to buy a dress form and some fabrics after I get back home (which was a day before the course started). Now, imagine my shock when I realized I was supposed to post pictures of a sewed sleeveless blouse sloper to Facebook no later than November 16th, or I would have been disqualified! I started gathering all the information about the dress form in a panic (therefore my previous post). I considered an option to bring the form from Italy, but I realized it would be too much of a hustle to carry it through the airport. So I decided to buy the form in Belgrade, and asked my parents (thanks mom and dad!) to do the shopping for me, so that I could sew straight on when coming home from the airport. Just so you know, I found the shop I mentioned in my previous post on my last night in Rome, when my parents had the form at their place. I didn't want to let myself regret for the decision I had made, so I didn't even enter the shop to see what it had to offer.

Lutka je malo uža od mene, budući da je veličina 36-38, a ja sam 38-40. Mislim da će mi gornji deo odgovarati, ali da ću morati da je malo popunim u kukovima i još više u zadnjici, pošto nema šanse da smršam toliko :-). Na žalost, nije podesiva za različite mere, ali pretpostavljam da to i nije prevelik problem. Pre neki dan sam sa uživanjem direktno na lutki pravila osnovni kroj za bluzu - tehnika o kojoj sam do sada samo čitala - i gle čuda, sve je mnogo lakše nego kada modelujem direktno na sebi!

The form is slightly narrower than me, since it's size 36-38, and I'm 38-40. I think the top part will suit me, while I'll have to stuff the bottom part of if, especially the rear since there's no chance I loose that much of a weight :-). Unfortunately, it's not an adjustable form, but it's not a big deal to me. The other day I enjoyed drafting the basic bodice sloper directly on the form - a technique I've only read about so far - and, by miracle, it's far more easier than drafting on myself!

Kao što rekoh, kurs traje 90 dana, a u grupi nas ima 40. Svakih par dana dobijamo novi zadatak od Satoa, sa detaljnim instrukcijama u vidu video klipova. Ono što nisam ranije znala je da su ti video klipovi ekskluzivno dostupni samo polaznicima kursa, i to u kratkom periodu koji nam je na raspolaganju da završimo zadatak. Jednom kada rok za zadatak istekne, filmovi se brišu i više nam nisu na raspolaganju. Takođe, zadaci su diskvalitivnog karaktera, tj. oni učesnici koji ne ispune zadatak na vreme se iksljučuju iz daljeg rada. Trenutno smo na zadatku broj 1, koji ovako izgleda u mojoj interpretaciji. Facebook grupa preko koje komuniciramo sa Satoom je zatvorenog tipa, tako da vam ne mogu proslediti link da vidite kako ostali učesnici rade.

As I said, the course lasts 90 days, and there are 40 of us in a group. Every few days Sato gives us a new task with detailed instructions in a form of video clips. Now I realized these films are exclusively available only to the course attendants, during the short period of time we have to accomplish the given task. Once we reach the deadline, the clips are being deleted and no longer available to us. The attendants of the masterclass can be disqualified by Sato if they fail to accomplish the task in given time. We are currently working on the task no. 1, which looks like this in my interpretation. The Facebook group we use to communicate with Sato is closed for public, so I can't share its link with you, and you can't see the other people's work.

Veoma sam počastvovana prilikom da učim od velemajstora svog zanata, i nadam se da sam dovoljno dorasla zadatku i izazovu u koji se upuštam. Obaveštavaću vas o progresu i svojim utiscima. Za sada, mislim da sam okružena žestokom konkurencijom i veoma ambicioznim polaznicima, što dodatno inspiriše moj takmičarski duh.

I am very honored by a chance to learn from the master and I hope I am up with the task and the challenge I took. I'll inform you of the progress and my impressions. So far, I think I'm surrounded by some very skillful and ambitious guys, which inspires my competitive spirit.

Hitno potrebna pomoć čitalaca / Readers' help needed

Dragi čitaoci, potrebna mi je vaša pomoć, ukoliko možete da me uputite. Dakle, nalazim se u Rimu, i pre neko veče sam prošla pored prodavnice krojačkih lutki. Međutim, sada ne mogu nikako da se setim gde se ista nalazila, i potreban mi je vodič kroz Rim, ukoliko takav postoji među vama. Ako se ne varam, prodavnica se nalazila blizu Termini stanice (tu nam je lociran hotel, pa pretpostavljam da sam negde u blizini videla prodavnicu). Stvar je prilično hitna, pošto ostajem u Rimu do 16. Novembra. Bila bih vam jako zahvalna ako biste mogli da me uputite.

Dear readers, I need your help. I'm staying in Rome, Italy, at the moment. A few nights ago I saw a lovely dress forms' store somewhere in the town, but now I can't remember where it was. I need a guide through Rome to help me find the store. If I'm right, the store was located close to the Termini station (that's where our hotel is, and I suppose that's where I saw the store). The thing is quite urgent, since we're leaving Rome on November 16th. I'd appreciate your help.