Suknja sa faltama / Skirt with pleats

U minulih meces dana sam imala baš mnogo zbivanja, koja su mi dosta poremetila planove, i zbog kojih sam morala malo da pregrupišem obaveze i postavim im odgovarajuće prioritete. Dobra stvar u celoj priči je da sam našla novi posao, koji donosi hleb na sto (i mnogo više od hleba, nadam se!), i koji će mi obezbediti sredstva za produkciju svojih krojeva. Loša stvar je što više nemam toliko slobodnog vremena, tako da će prodaja krojeva krenuti malo kasnije nego što sam inicijalno planirala.

Last month brought some new moments to my life, which changed my plans and set some new priorities. The good thing is that I found a new job, that brings food to the table (and much more, I hope!), and that will provide the means for my patterns' production. The downside is that I don't have as much spare time as I did before, and this will postpone the patterns sale.

Ipak, uspela sam da ukradem malo vremena da sašijem par stvari - slatku haljinu o kojoj ću uskoro pisati, i veoma zanimljivu suknju koju vidite na slikama ispod. 

However, I did manage to steal some time to sew a couple of garments - a cute dress I'll write about soon, and a very interesting skirt you can see on the pictures bellow. 

O ovoj suknji maštam već par godina. Ideju sam dobila od slične suknje koju sam videla u prodavnici - izvrnute falte, koje se pretvaraju u gajke za kaiš. Slična varijacija na temu mogla se naći i u Burdi  1/2008, s tim što su gajke napravljene tako što su otvorene velike rupice za dugmad, kroz koje se provlači kaiš. Davne 2008. sam sašila sebi pomenutu varijaciju, ali nisam bila zadovoljna ni izgledom ni ponašanjem suknje. Problem je bio u tome što ovaj model nema klasičan pojas, koji bi suknji dao potreban oblik na prelazu s kukova na struk, pa mi je suknja stajala prilično nisko, što mojoj građi nikako ne pristaje. Dodatno, kad god bih sela, suknja bi se podigla malo u vis, a onda bi pojas suknje stajao kao obruč oko mog struka, ne prijanjajući uz telo. Ako imate naglašen struk, kao što ja imam, verovatno ste i sami imali prilike da iskusite ovo i zmate o čemi pričam.  

I've been dreaming of this skirt for a few years now. I got the idea from a similar RTW skirt - it had inverted kick pleats that served as belt loops as well. A similar pattern could be found in the 1/2008 BWOF, but the belt loops were made as large button holes through which the belt was inserted. I made myself a skirt using the mentioned pattern back in 2008, but I wasn't satisfied with the shape and behavior of the skirt. The BWOF pattern didn't have a waistband or a waist yoke that would give the skirt the required shape at hips - waist area. Therefore, the skirt sat too low on my hips, which doesn't suite my body shape at all. Additionally, whenever I would had sat, the skirt would rise up a bit, and the waistline stood as some sort of hoop around my waist. If you have a tiny waist as I do, you have probably experienced a similar problem, and you know what I'm talking about.

Slika iz Burde 1/2008

Picture from BWOF 1/2008

Dakle, trebala mi je suknja koja ima klasičan pojas, koja stoji visoko na struku, ali takva da falte prelaze u gajke za pojas. Znala sam šta želim, ali nisam znala kako to da izvedem - sve do sada. Tačnije, shvatila sam pre 2 godine kako da napravim kroj, ali sam imala par neuspelih pokušaja dok nisam dobila pravi oblik. Naime, prošle godine sam krenula da šijem suknju koja je završila u kanti za đubre - odnos širine falti i same suknje nije bio dobar, ali sam kroz to iskustvo mnogo naučila. Novi pokušaj je usledio pre jedno mesec dana - i bio bi dobar da nisam peglom progorela platno (ups!). Kad god napravim ovakvu početničku grešku zapitam se da li sam jedina. Imate li i vi ovakve gafove?

Treća sreća, kažu ljudi. 

So, I need a skirt with a classic waist yoke, that sat high on my waist, but with inverted kick pleats that transformed into belt loops. I knew exactly what I wanted, but I had no idea how to make it - until now, that is. Well, I figured it out 2 years ago, actually, but I had several failures until I got the right shape. Last year I started sewing a skirt that ended up in a trash bin - the pleats and skirt width ratio was all wrong, but i learnt a lot through that experience. A new attempt happened a month ago - it would have been a successful one hadn't I burnt the fabric with an iron (oops!). Whenever I make such a beginner mistake, I wonder if I'm the only one. Do you ever experience such guff?  

Evo kako izgleda suknja. Moja verzija ima i džepove, koje mnogo volim. Prednja i zadnja strana imaju po pet falti. Centralna falta na prednjoj strani je jedina koja se ne preliva u gajku, kako bi kaiš na sredini mogao normalno da stoji. Prelaz između pojasa i suknje, kao i ivice džepova su ukrašeni paspulom u šavu. Sve falte su ušivene pri vrhu, šavom dugim otprilike 5cm, odakle otvoreno padaju, dajući suknji volumen. Takođe, sve  ivice falti su preštepane, kako se pregib falti vremenom ne bi izgubio. Ovo prilično olakšava posao prilikom peglanja suknje. Kao što vidite, razlika između moje i Burdine verije je i u tome što ja nisam prišivala faltu za suknju u gornjem delu, tako da na mojoj suknji falte imaju trodimenzionalnost.

So, here's how the skirt looks. My version has pockets, which I adore. There are five inverted kick pleats on both front and back. The central front pleat is the only one that doesn't convert into a belt loop, allowing the belt to sit properly on the center front. The skirt top / waist yoke seam and the pockets are trimmed with black piping. All the pleats are closed with a 5cm long stitch at the top of the skirt, and are open from that point on, giving the skirt a nice volume. Also, all the pleats are toptsitched along the edges, to keep the fold line in place. This also makes the pressing much easier. As you can see, a difference between my and BWOF's version is that I didn't sew the pleats to the skirt in the upper part, so the pleats on my skirt have the third dimension. 

  

A evo kako suknja izgleda na meni. Jako mi se sviđja u kombinaciji sa crnim bluzama, kojih nemam mnogo - eto povoda da sašijem još koju košuljicu. Mislim da gajke bile mnogo efektnije kada bi kaiš bio u crnoj boji, jer bi se kontrast mnogo bolje vide. No, nemam adekvatan crni kaiš; dok ne nabavim neki, poslužiće bež pleteni kaišić.

Finally, here's how the skirt looks on me. I really like it in combination with black tops, and I don't have many of those - a nice excuse for me to make few more blouses. I think the belt loops would look better it the belt was black, the contrast would make them more prominent. However, I don't have an adequate black belt; until I get one, the beige braided belt would do.