Porubljivanje farmerki / Hemming jeans

Danas sam skraćivala farmerke, pa eto zgodne prilike da vam pokažem tehniku koju primenjujem kada je teksas previše debeo da bih ga duplo podvijenog provukla kroz mašinu. Moram da napomenem da ja nisam nešto posebno fascinirana idejom da originalan porub mora ostati netaknut, kao ni tehnikama koje se primenjuju u ovu svrhu, jer tako porubljene pantalone meni deluju užasno neuredne.

I shortened legs on a pair of jeans today and thought I might show you the technique I use whenever the jeans is too thick to run it through machine when it's double folded. I have to say I'm not too thrilled with an idea that an original hemming of the jeans has to stay intact nor with the techniques that are used for this purpose, since the pants shortened that way don't look particularly neat to me.

Ja volim da uredno i lepo porubim pantalone - otsečem višak dužine s dna nogavice, i ostavim 2 cm dužine za porub. Zatim prišijem paspul traku za lice nogavice i podvijem traku ka naličju nogavice. Paspul traka je tu iz dva razloga - sakriva neobrađenu ivicu nogavice, i ne dodaje platnu debljinu, jer je teksas inače prilično debeo i obične kućne mašine često nemaju dovoljno prostora ispod papučice, kao ni dovoljno jake motore za šivenje trostruko podvijenog platna ove debljine. Zamislite tek delove na bočnim spojevima nogavica - u preseku sa dulpo podvijenim porubom, zadebljanje tkanine ume da bude i po 1 cm. 

Obično koristim ostatke paspul trake koje imam u svojim zalihama pozamanterije, a porub u kontrastnoj boji mi uvek deluje zanimljiv. 

I like having a pair of neatly hemmed jeans - I cut off the extra length from legs, leaving 2 cm of length for hemming. Then I sew on a cotton bias band to the right side of the leg and fold the band inwards, to the wrong side. The bias band has a double purpose - it hides a raw edge of the leg and it doesn't add extra thickness to the denim that's already too thick. Home sewing machines usually don't have enough space below the presser foot, nor strong enough engines for sewing a denim that's in three layers. Think of all the side seams of the legs crossed with the double folded hem - the bulk can be up to 1 cm thick on these parts. 

I usually use bias band remnants from my notions stash; a hem in a contrasting color is always interesting to me.

Nogavicu potom podvijem ka unutra za 2 cm i dobro prepeglam pregib.

I fold the hem inwards by 2 cm and press the fold well.

Potom proštepam porub, šijući tik uz ivicu poruba, kao što je prikazano na slici. Koristim konac u odgovarajućoj boji, i bod dužine 3 - 3.5 mm, zavisno od dužine štepa na ostatku farmerica. 

Then I topstitch the hemline, by sewing as close as possible to the raw edge. I use a thread in a corresponding color and a 3 - 3.5 mm long stitch, depending on length of the original stitching.