Uglavljivanje rukava na bluzi / Setting in a sleeve on a blouse

Već sam na blogu objavila tutorijal koji opisuje kako se uglavljuje rukav, ali se taj tutorijal odnosi na deblje materijale, za kapute i jakne. Pošto primenjujem malo drugačiju tehniku kada radim sa tankim materijalima, pomislih kako ne bi bilo loše da vam pokažem još par caka.

I've already written a tutorial about setting in a sleeve, but that tut is related to thick fabrics used for coats and jackets. Since I use a slightly different technique when working with light fabrics, I thought it wouldn't hurt to show you a few more tricks.

Kada iskrojite rukav, prenesite oznake sa kugle rukava na materijal:

• Tačku spajanja rukava sa ramenim šavom
• Tačku spajanja rukava sa prednjim panelom prsluka
• Tačke između kojih treba nabirati kuglu rukava

Koristeći najduži bod na mašini, proštepajte dva reda šava uz ivicu kugle rukava, a između tačaka za nabiranje kugle. Ostavite poduže končiće na oba kraja štepa.

When sleeve is cut, mark the following notches on your fabric:

• The notch where sleeve is joined to the shoulder
• The notch where sleeve is joined to the front bodice
• Sleeve head ease markers

Using the longest stitch on your machine, run two rows of stitches on your sleeve's head, between the sleeve head ease markers. Leave long thread ends.

Postavljajući lice materijala prema licu materijala, poravnajte šav rukava sa bočnim šavom prsluka, pa špenadlama uhvatite zajedno slojeve tkanine, prateći krivinu otvora za rukav. Zaustavite se u tačkama obeleženim na rukavu, u kojima počinje nabiranje kugle rukava.

With right sides together, align the sleeve's seam with the bodice side seam and pin the pieces together, following the curvature of the armscye. Stop pinning at the points where the sleeve head should be gathered.

Spojte vrh kugle rukava sa ramenim šavom.

Zatim, povlačenjem niti konca, naberite kuglu rukava dok se dužina kugle rukava ne izjednači sa dužinom otvora za rukav na prsluku. Ravnomerno rasporedite nabore, vodeći računa da se nigde ne formiraju velike falte. Uhvatite slojeve materijala gustim nizom špenadli.

Savet: Kada nabirate kuglu rukava, uradite prvo prednju pa zadnju stranu rukava ili obrnuto.

Pin the top of the sleeve head to the shoulder seam.
Pull the threads on the stitch rows to gather the sleeve head. Keep pulling until the length of the sleeve head is equal to the length of the armscye. Spread the gathers along the sleeve head, making sure there are no folds. Pin the layers with a dense set of pins.
Tip: When gathering the sleeve head, work first on front than on the back side of the sleeve or vice versa.

Prišijte rukav za prsluk bluze, vodeći računa da šav ide malo ispod drugog šava za nabiranje, kako se konac ne bi video sa lica materijala. 

Otsecite konce koji vire. Obradite ivice kugle rukava i otvora za rukav zajedno, pa raspeglajte lepo rukav.

Savet: Slobodno možete šiti preko špenadli (dokle god su špenadle postavljene normalno u odnosu na pravac šava), ali štepajte polako, kako igla mašine ne bi udarila u špenadlu.

Sew the sleeve to the bodice, making sure your stitch runs just bellow the second row of the gathering stitch, so that the gathering stitch doesn't show on the right side of the fabric.
Cut off the loose threads and serge the SAa together.
Tip: You can sew over the pins (as long as the pins are perpendicular to the stitch line), but sew slowly so your needle doesn't hit the pin.

"S" kaput, deo 9 / The "S" coat, part 9

Pokazaću vam kako sam ušila rukave kaputa. 

I'll show you how I sewed the coat's sleeves.

Prvo sam špenadlama pričvrstila keder traku za manžetnu rukava, a zatim proštepala delove zajedno.

First I pinned the piping cord to the sleeve cuff. Then I stitched them together.

Zatim sam spojila manžetnu sa ostatkom rukava. Nakon štepanja sam raspeglala šavove.

After that I attached the sleeve cuff to the sleeve. I pressed the seams open after running them through the sewing machine.

Sašila sam rukav, presavila opšivak poruba ka unutra i prepeglala porub.

I made a sleeve, folded the hemline inwards, and pressed it well.

Kada uglavljujem rukave, koristim relativno jednostavan metod. Prvo namestim donji deo rukava i pričvrstim ga špenadlama za otvor rukava.

When setting in the sleeve, I use a relatively easy method. First I layout the lower part of the sleeve and pin it to the armscye.

Zatim špenadlama pričvrstim vrh kugle rukava za šav na ramenu.

Then I pin the sleeve's top to the shoulder seam of the armscye.

U sledećem koraku uhvatim rukav za otvor rukava na par mesta. Na slici ispod možete videti kako rukav pravi valove na mestim gde nije pričvršćen. To je zbog toga što kugla rukava ima veći obim od obima otvora za rukav.

In the next step I pin the sleeve to the armscye on a few points. You can see on the picture below how the sleeve forms waves on those parts where the pins are missing. This is due to the sleeve head's ease.

U sledećem koraku ispravljam formirane valove tako što koristim veliki broj šenadli koje gusto raspoređujem duž otvora rukava. Možete videti kako se rukav gotovo glatko uklapa u otvor rukava. Moram da napomenem - što je materijal tanji, to je gušći niz špenadli potreban da bi se rukav glatko uglavio.

In a next step I straighten the formed waves of the sleeve by pinning the sleeve to the armscye with a dense set of pins. You can see how the sleeve fits into the armhole smoothly. Note that you'll need more pins for thinner fabrics.

Evo kako izgleda rukav koji je potpuno uglavljen u otvor rukava, pre šivenja.

Here's how the sleeve looks when it's completely pinned to the armhole.

I evo kako izgleda ušiven rukav. Primetite da se valovi vide kada se špenadle sklone, ali je rukav svejedno glatko uglavljen i nema nabora duž linije šava.

And here's how it looks after running it through the sewing machine. Note that the waves can be seen on the sleeve, while the sleeve is smoothly sewed to the armhole, without any puckering.

Konačno, evo kako rukav izgleda spolja, pre peglanja.

Finally, here's how the sleeve looks from the right side, before pressing the seams.

Evo šta još treba da uradim na kaputu:

• Da prišijem kragnu,
• Da prišijem naramenice, 
• Da spojim delove postave,
• Da prišijem postavu za kaput,
• Da prišijem dugmad.

Here's what's left to do on a coat:

• To attach a collar,
• To sew in shoulder pads,
• To sew together lining pieces,
• To attach the lining to the coat,
• To sew in buttons.