Smaragdna košulja / An emerald shirt

Konačno imam i slike košulje o kojoj sam pisala prošle nedelje. Poslužila je kao dobar materijal za par tutorijala.

Košulja je napravljena od divnog pamučnog puplina, koji sam kupila po neverovatno niskoj ceni (kako volim kad mi se to desi!). Boja materijala me ponajviše privukla - mešavina pertrolej i smaragdno zelene smaragdnozelene (naučih od Milje nešto novo o srpskom pravopisu), prelepa!

Smišljala sam kako bih mogla najbolje da iskoristim svoj materijal, i lomila se između košulje i letnje haljine, ali sam shvatila da mi je nova košulja mnogo potrebnija.

I can finally show you pictures of an emerald shirt I wrote about last week. It served as a nice material for several tutorials.
The shirt is made of a gorgeous cotton poupline that I bought for really cheap (oh how I love when this happens!). I was drawn to it by the color - a mixture of an emerald and petrol green, just gorgeous! I've been thinking of how to utilize the fabric and was in doubt between making a shirt or a summer dress, but I realized I needed a shirt more than a dress.

Osnova za bluzu je kroj od koga ne odustajem - Burda 1/2008 #108. Ponekad samu sebe iznenadim novim varijacijama koje ovaj kroj može da iznedri. Ideja za ovu bluzu nije preterano originalna, sličnu sam napravila davno, koristeći kroj iz španskog časopisa Patrones. Originalna bluza mi je zadala par glavobolja, jer je kroj ispao prilično velik i morala sam dosta da ga korigujem kako bih spasila bluzu. Kasnije sam, tako korigovan kroj koristila još par puta, ali sam primetila da šav koji spaja gornje i donje panele prednjice stoji previsoko preko grudi, što prilično čudno igleda. Zato reših da iznova prekrojim svoj omiljeni kroj i napravim repliku već pomenute košulje.

A basis for the shirt is the pattern I've been using over and over again - BWOF 1/2008 #108. I surprise myself sometimes with the endless variations that come from this pattern. The idea for the blouse was not a very original one, I made a similar blouse ages ago, using a pattern from the Spanish Patrones magazine. The original blouse gave me a headache, since the pattern turned out too big and I had to tweak it a lot in order to save the blouse. Later on, I used the altered pattern few more times, but I've noticed that the horizontal seam joining the upper and lower panels sits to high over my breast, which looks kind of awkward. So I decided to redraft my favorite pattern once again and make a replica of the mentioned blouse.

 

Prednji donji paneli su najpre nafaltani sitnim falticama, a potom ukoso iskrojeni tako da faltice formiraju šaru riblje kosti. Gornji bočni paneli su blago prošireni kako bih mogla da ih naberem ispod grudi.

The bottom front panels were pleated first with tiny pintucks, and then cut on bias so that the pintucks form a chevron motif. The top side panels were altered a bit in order to make gathers under bust.

Kragnu i manžetne sam takođe iskrojila od nafaltanog materijala, pri čemu se motiv riblje kosti ponavlja na kragni, dok su na manžetnama faltice postavljene vodoravno.

The collar and cuffs were also cut from the pleated fabric, repeating the chevron motif on the collar. The pintucks were laid horizontally on the cuffs.

Neverovatno kako jedna jednobojna košulja ume da zada problem prilikom kombinovanja sa ostalom garderobom. Ovaj put sam je uparila sa teget suknjom, ali sam kupila još par materijala za suknje, koje planiram da nosim sa ovom bluzom. Jedna od njih je skoro gotova, tako da možete uskoro da očekujete novi post.

It's amazing how a plain shirt can be difficult to match with the rest of one's wardrobe. This time I paired it with a navy skirt, but I bought few more fabrics for skirts that I plan to wear with the shirt. One of the skirts is almost finished, so you can expect a new post about it soon.

U međuvremenu, evo par tehnika koje sam koristila prilikom šivenja košulje. Klik na sliku odvešće vas do odgovarajućih instrukcija.

Meanwhile, here are some of the techniques I used while sewing the shirt. Click on the picture will take you to the corresponding tutorial post.