"S" kaput, deo 5 / The "S" coat, part 5

Hvala vam na divnim komentarima i rečima podrške. Jako sam bila uzbuđena oko kolumne još od kako sam potpisala ugovor sa časopisom, ali sam zadržala određenu dozu skepse bukvalno do trenutka kada sam dobila kopiju časopisa. 

Takođe, hvala svima koji su odgovorili na pitanje vezano za format pisanja bloga. Ispade da vam se blog manje-više dopada ovakav kakav je, pa ga za sada neću menjati.

Thank you for lovely and supportive comments. I was so thrilled about the column ever since I signed the contract with the magazine, but I was skeptical about it until I got the copy of the magazine.

Also, thank you all for answering the question related to the blog's format. It turned out you more or less like the blog the way it is, so I won't change it for now.

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Nastavljam dalje sa "S" kaputom. Budući da sam dosta izmenila originalan kroj, htela sam da isprobam novi model pre no što iskrojim materijal. Dakle, sašila sam test kroj i veoma mi je drago zbog toga, jer je kroj imao par problema.

Za početak, mislim da je kroj spreda bio isečen na pogrešnom mestu po horizontali - prednji deo je imao neobične nabore oko grudi, linija šava bila je postavljena prenisko, nije išla preko vrha grudi.

Takođe, primetila sam dijagonalne nabore na prednjem delu, u smeru od grudi prema kukovima. I, kao dodatni problem, kaput mi je bio blago tesan preko grudi, dok je u ramenima bio taman.

I'm continuing my work on the "S" coat. Since I changed the original pattern a lot, I wanted to test it before cutting the fabric. So I made a muslin, and I'm so happy I did it, since the pattern had a few problems.

First, I think the pattern was cut on the wrong place on the front - it had some unusual gathers over the bust, and the seam was placed too low beneath the bust.

Also, I noticed diagonal gathers on the front that went from the bust towards the hips. Additionally, the coat needed a full bust alteration since it was slightly tight.

Na slici ispod možete videti dijagonalne nabore o kojima sam pričala.

You can see the diagonal gathers on the picture below.

Na leđima sam takođe primetila nabore na gornjem delu, oko centralnog šava.

I noticed the gathers on the back top too.

Kroj sam izmenila na nekoliko mesta. Prvo sam rešila problem širine kaputa na grudima. Napravila sam dva vertikalna proreza na prednjim delovima kaputa, tačno preko vrha grudi. Zatim sam dodala parče tkanine ispod kaputa, zatvarajući njime rupu koja se napravila na prorezima. Na slici ispod vidite moj prvi pokušaj, nakon koga sam proreze dodatno prosekla ka vratu, i time rešila problem.

I altered the pattern on several places. First I made a FBA - I made two vertical cuts over the bust. Then I put two strips of fabric beneath the coat, closing the holes I made. The picture below depicts my first attempt at this fix, later on I sliced the coat more towards the neck thus solving the problem.

Zatim sam podigla horizontalnu liniju S-krive par santimetara uvis.

Then I translated the S-curve by few centimeters up.

Na zadnjem delu sam imala par intervencija. Prvo sam suzila kaput u struku, hvatajući centralni zadnji šav. Zatim sam korigovala kroj kako bih uklonila nabore na gornjem delu - napravila sam dve simetrične vertikalne brusne koje su išle od S krive ka ramenima. Na kraju sam podigla S-krivu za par santimetara. Slika ispod ne prikazuje potpuno verno stanje kaputa, jer izgleda kao da imam ogroman nabor preko struka, što u prirodi nije tako.

I made a few alterations on the back. First I narrowed down the coat along the CB seam. Then I made two symmetrical vertical darts on the back, that went from the S-curve towards the shoulders, removing the gathers this way. Finally, I shifted up the S-curve by few centimeters. The picture bellow doesn't do any justice to the coat, it seams like there is a huge gather over the waist area, while there isn't one in the real life.

Konačno, rasparala sam test kroj i isekla ga duž novih linija S-krive. Dobijeni kroj sam prenela na novi komad papira i to će biti verzija s kojom ću raditi.

Finally, I ripped off the coat seams, and cut the panels along the new S-curves. I transferred the alterations to a new piece of paper and I'll use this version of the pattern for my coat.