Srećna Nova Godina! - Happy New Year!

Želim vam svima Srećnu Novu Godinu! 

Živeli!

I wish you all a Happy New Year! 

Cheers!

Krojevi za download / Patterns for download

Od danas možete download-ovati moje krojeve direktno sa bloga. Kliknite na Download tab na vrhu strane i zatim sledite link željenog kroja. U narednim danima ću postaviti još krojeva.

Molim vas da obratite pažnju: svi krojevi su dati samo u jednoj veličini, koja je navedena uz svaki kroj. Krojeve pravim prema svojim merama, pa se može desiti da su neki od njih dati u međuveličini (budući da nosim veličinu 38 za gornje delove i veličinu 40 za donje delove). Takvi krojevi će imati naznaku u sledećem formatu: "38-40". Takođe, imajte na umu da krojevi nemaju uključene dodatke za opšivke.

Savetujem vam da, pre no što iskrojite materijal, isprobate kroj koristeći neku jeftinu tkaninu.

Ukoliko koristite moje krojeve, molim vas da mi javite vaše utiske, svaki komentar i kritika su dobrodošli! 

Starting from today, you can download my patterns directly from the blog. To do so, click the Download tab on the top of the page and follow the link of the desired pattern. I will post more patterns in the following days. 

Please pay attention: all patterns are given in one size only. I draft the patterns using my body's measurements, hence some of the patterns might be given in a middle size (since I wear size 38 for the tops and size 40 for the bottoms). These patterns will have a label in a format like this: "38-40". Also, have on mind that the patterns do not include seam allowances.

I strongly advise you to, before cutting your fashion fabric, make a muslin using some cheap fabric.

If you use my patterns, please let me know your impressions, any sort of comment and critique are welcomed!

Prugaste pantalone, deo 4 / Striped pants, part 4

Evo slika moje prelepe drugarice u prugastim pantalonama. Rekla bih da joj odlično stoje.

Here are the photos of my lovely friend wearing the striped pants. I think the pants fit her very well.

Maslinaste pantalone, deo 1 / Olive pants, part 1

Trenutno šijem maslinasto zelene pantalone, koristeći opet Bella kroj za pantalone, sa BurdaStyle sajta. Ovaj put sam napravila par manjih izmena na kroju: sklonila sam falte sa džepova, i podigla sam liniju džepa za 5cm, kao što sam to radila i na mornarskim pantalonama. Takođe, rešila sam da napravim pantalone koje će imati rajfešlus, kao klasične pantalone. Ostatak pantalona je neizmenjen. 

Evo instrukcija kako da ušijete rajfešlus na pantalonama.

Isecite traku materijala, široku 7cm, i malo dužu od otvora šlica na pantalonama. Ovo će biti prelaz šlica. Presavijte traku na pola po dužini i  prepeglajte je. Zaoblite jedan kraj trake i obradite ivice. 

I'm currently sewing a pair of pants, using again the Bella pants pattern, downloaded from the BurdaStyle web site. This time, I made few minor alterations on the original pattern: I removed the pleated details from the pockets, and I shifted up the pocket line by 5cm, just like I did on my Nautical pants. Also, I wanted to make a pants with classical zipper closure. The rest of the pants stayed as it is.

Here's a tutorial on how to sew in the zipper.

Cut a strip of fabric, 7cm wide and few centimeters longer than the slit on the pants. This will be the zipper placket. Fold the placket in half, along its length, and press it. Curve down one side of the strip and serge the raw edge.

Postavite rajfešlus preko trake, tako da se donji kraj rajfešlusa poklapa sa zaobljenom ivicom trake. Takođe, imajte u vidu da se rajfešlus na ženskim pantalonam ušiva tako da desna strana pantalona preklapa levu stranu, pa rajfešlus treba ušiti tako da je obrađena ivica sa njegove desne strane. Kada šijete rajfešlus, šav treba da postavite koliko gode je moguće udesno.

Place the zipper over the placket, so that the bottom side of the zipper matches the curved side of the placket. Have on mind that right side of a closure on women's pants (and on all other garments) overlaps the left one, so the placket's raw edge should be placed on the right side of the zipper. When sewing the pieces together, position the stitch to the right as much as possible.  

Spojte levu i desnu stranu pantalona, ostavljajući otvoren šlic na pantalonama. 

Na slici ispod, možete videti ivicu šlica koja je profircana narandžastim koncem. 

Sew in together the left and the right sides of the pants, leaving the zipper slit unsewn.

You can see on the picture below that I hand basted the seam line of the slit in orange thread.

Savijte levi opšivak šlica, ali ne duž ivice šlica, već pregib pomerite par milimetara udesno, i pričvrstite ga špenadlama.

Fold the left seam allowance of the zipper slit. Don't fold the fabric along the seam line, but move the fold to the right by few millimeters. Pin the folded fabric.

Postavite rajfešlus i prelaz šlica kao što je prikazano na slici. Zupce rajfešlusa postavite što više udesno, tako da ivica šlica ne stoji tik uz njih. Pričvrstite delove špenadlama. Proštepajte delove zajedno, postavljajući šav što je moguće bliže rajfešlusu.

Position the zipper and the placket as shown on the picture. Position the zipper teeth to the right as much as you can, so that the slit fold line isn't standing right next to them. Sew the pieces together, positioning the stitch as close to the zipper as possible.

Presavijte desni opšivak šlica duž ivice šlica i postavite delove kao što je prikazano na slici. Pričvrstite delove špenadlama.

Fold the right slit SA along the seam line and layout the pants' pieces as  shown on the picture below. Pin the pieces together.

Okrenite pantalone na naličje. Ovako bi trebalo da izgledaju.

Turn the pants to their wrong side. This is how they should look like.

Savijte prelaz šlica prema desnom delu pantalona i pričvrstite ga špenadlama za pantalone. Drugu stranu rajfešlusa pričvrstite špenadlama za opšivak šlica, NE HVATAJUĆI pantalone.

Fold the zipper placket to the right side of the pants and pin it to the pants. Pin the other side of the zipper to the slit seam allowance on the right side, making sure YOU DON'T catch the pants.

Na slici ispod vidi se kako sam pričvrstila rajfešlus za opšivak šlica.

You can see on the image below how I pinned the zipper to the slit seam allowance.

Proštepajte spojene delove zajedno. Opet, trudite se da postavite šav što dalje od zubaca rajfešlusa.

Sew the zipper to the seam allowance. Position the stitch line as far away from the zipper as possible.

Okrenite pantalone na lice. Prelaz šlica vratite u normalan položaj (uklonite špenadle koje su ga pridržavale za desnu stranu pantalona). Iscrtajte liniju štepa, tako da bude paralelna sa ivicom šava, i tako da ne prelazi preko trake rajfešlusa. Na slici ispod možete videti kako izgleda linija štepa na mojim pantalonama. Preštepajte šlic prateći iscrtanu liniju.

Turn the pants to the right side. Put the zipper placket in it's normal position (remove the pins that were fixing it to the pant's right side). Mark a topstitch line - it should be parallel to the slit line and it should not go over the zipper strip. You can see on the image below how the topstitch line looked on my pants. Topstitch the slit along the marked line.

I to je to! Ušili ste rajfešlus na vašim pantalonama! Nemojte seći vrhove rajfešlusa pre no što ušijete pojas.

And voila! You've just sewn the zipper! Do not cut the extra length of your zipper before sewing in the wait band.

Evo kako pnatalone izgledaju kada se prišije pojas i prepegla.

Here's how the pants look like after applying and pressing the waist band.

TR suknja, deo 3 / TR skirt, part 3

Nisam uspela da fotografišem TR suknju napolju, tako da postavljam svoje standardne slike koje sam uslikala u kući. Mislim da je suknja odlično ispala, meni se veoma sviđa.

Srećni praznici svima koji ih slave ovih dana!

I didn't manage to take some outdoor photos, so here are my standard indoor pics of the TR skirt. I think the skirt turned out pretty good, and I like it a lot. 

Happy holidays to all of you who celebrate them these days!

Prugaste pantalone, deo 3 / Striped pants, part 3

Ponavljam instrukcije za šivenje pantalona, koristeći iste slike kao u tutorijalu koji sam pravila za BurdaStyle sajt, sa par dodatnih slika koje opisuju neke dodatne detalje ili razlike između mojih mornarskih pantalona i prugastih pantalona koje sada šijem.

Nalepite lepljivo platno srednje debljine na prednji deo nogavice (izrez oko džepa), bočni panel, kao i na zadnje delove pojasa.

Nalepite tanko lepljivo platno na centralni prednji opšivak, opšivak bočnog panela, kao i na opšivke zadnjih delova pojasa.

I'm repeating the instructions for sewing the pants, using the same photos as the ones I used for the BurdaStyle website, and I'm using few more additional images that describe few more details or the differences between the sailor pants and these striped pants.

Apply medium weight interfacing to the front leg, the Hip panel, and to the back waist panels. 

Apply lightweight interfacing to the central front facing, hip facing and to the back waist facing panels.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite zadnji bočni panel pojasa za centralni zadnji panel. Proštepajte delove i raspeglajte dodatke za opšivke. Na slici ispod se vidi kako su se kose pruge savršeno uklopile na zadnjim panelima pojasa.

With right sides together, pin the side back waist panel to the central back waist panel. Sew the pieces together and press the seams open. you can see on the picture below how the bias stripes perfectly matched on back waist panels, forming a herringbone pattern.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite zadnji pojas za centralni zadnji panel nogavice. Proštepajte delove i suzite dodatke za opšivke na delu pojasa. Raspeglajte dodatke za opšivke, u smeru prema struku.

With right sides together, pin the back waist panel to the back leg panel. Grade the SAs and press them towards the waist.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite zadnji panel nogavice za prednji panel. Proštepajte delove i raspeglajte dodatke za opšivke.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite levu i desnu nogavicu jednu za drugu. Proštepajte delove i raspeglajte dodatke za opšivke.

With right sides together, pin the front leg to the back leg. Sew the pieces together and press the seams open. With right sides together, pin the left and right legs together. Sew the pieces and press the seams open.

Ovako pantalone izgledaju nakon odrađenih koraka.

This is how the pants look after these steps.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite džep za prednji centralni opšivak. Prepeglajte šavove prema dnu džepa. Ponovite postupak na obe strane opšivka.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite centralni prednji opšivak za pantalone. Proštepajte delove. get Da biste dobili oštre, prave uglove, smanjujte dužinu boda kako se približavate uglu, i vratite nazad dužinu boda kada prođete ćošak. U mom slučaju, smanjila sam dužinu boda sa 2.5mm na 1mm.

With right sides together, pin the pocket to the central front facing. Press the seams towards the bottom of the pocket. Repeat the process for both left and right side. 

With right sides together, pin the central front facing to the front of the pants. Sew the pieces together. To get nice, sharp angles when sewing seams, make shorter stitches as you’re approaching the angle. In my case, I switched from 2.5mm to 1mm stitches and turned back to 2.5mm when I passed the angle.

Suzite dodatke za opšivke na prednjem opšivku pantalona. Zasecite ćoškove skroz do šava, ali vodite računa da ne presečete šav. Prevrnite opšivak na lice i prepeglajte ga. 


Grade the SAs – trim the SAs of the facing. Clip the pocket corners right through the seamline. Be careful not to cut the seamline itself. Turn the facing inside out. Press the facing.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite džep za bočni panel.  Proštepaje delove. Prepeglajte šavove prema dnu džepa. Ponovite postupak na obe strane opšivka.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite bočni opšivak za bočni panel. Proštepajte delove, OSTAVLJAJUĆI polovinu šava na struku otšivenu.  Prepeglajte bočni panel duž linije šava.

With right sides together, pin the pocket to the hip panel. Sew the pieces together. Press the seams towards the bottom of the pocket.

With right sides together, pin the hip panel to its facing. Sew the pieces together, LEAVING a half of the waist seam unsewn. Turn the hip panel facing inside out. Press the panel along the stitched line.

U slučaju prugastih pantalona, vidite da sam bočni panel podelila na dva dela, tako da su pruge postavljene ukoso na bočnom delu pojasa.

In the case of striped pants, you can see that I divided the hip panel into two pieces, so that side waist panel has bias stripes.

Pričvrstite špenadlama bočni panel za prednji deo pantalona, kao što je prikazano na slici. Špenadlama pričvrstite džepove i proštepajte ih.
Licem na lice, pričvrstite zajedno bočne šavove nogavica pantalona. Proštepaje delove i raspeglajte šavove.
Pin the hip panel to the front pants panel as shown on the picture. Pin the pockets and sew them together. 

With right sides together, pin together the lateral sides of front and back legs. Sew the pieces together and press the seams open.

Pričvrstite špenadlama delove šliceva, vodeći računa da ne uhvatite špenadlama i prednji panel pantalona. Preštepajte delove duž linije nacrtane na slici.

Pin together the button closure flaps (the hip panel flap and the front facing flap), making sure you didn’t pin the front leg panel along with it. Stitch the flaps together following the line drawn on the picture.

Licem na lice, pričvrstite špenadlama opšivke zadnjeg dela pojasa. Preštepajte delove i raspeglajte šavove. Prišijte zadnji opšivak pojasa za prednji bočni opšivak. Raspeglajte šavove.
Špenadlama pričvrsiste opšivak pojasa za pojas. Proštepajte delove i suzite dodatke za opšivke na opšivku pojasa. Prevrnite opšivak pojasa ka unutra i prepeglajte ga duž linije šava.


With right sides together, pin the back waist facings. Sew the pieces together and press the seams open.

Sew the back waist facing to the hip panel facing. Press the seams open.

Pin the back waist facing to the back waist band of the pants. Sew the pieces together. Grade the SAs. Turn the facing inside out and press the waist band.

Otvorite rupice za dugmad.
Rukom prišijte prednji opšivak pantalona za pantalone, vodeći računa da se šavovi ne vide na licu materijala.


Open the buttonholes and sew the buttons.

Catchstitch the front facing to the pants – make sure the stitches do not show on the right side of the pants.

Porubite pantalone i prepglajte porub.


Evo kako pantalone trenutno izgledaju. Potrebno je da uradim još sledeće:

• da prišijem zadnji opšivak pojasa
• da otvorim rupice za dugmad i prišijem digmiće (takođe, treba da kupim dugmad)
• da porubim pantalone

Pre svega toga, drugarica mora da proba pantalone, tako da ću morati da sačekam još malo pre nego što ih završim.

Hem the pants and press the hem line.

Here's how the pants look at the moment. I have to do the following things:

• to apply back waist facing
• to open button holes and sew in th buttons (I have to buy the buttons, as well)
• to hem the pants

But, before all that, my firend needs to try them out, so I'll have to wait for that before finishing the pants.

Prugaste pantalone, deo 2 / Striped pants, part 2

Prugasti materijal nije komplikovan za rad, ali treba obratiti pažnju na simetriju leve i desne strane garderobe. Zbog toga, kada sečem materijal, sečem jedan po jedan sloj, odnosno jedan po jedan deo kroja. Najpre iskrojim jednu stranu prednjeg i zadnjeg dela nogavice, zatim isečene delove položim preko tkanine, poravnam sve pruge na oba sloja materijala, pričvrstim slojeve špenadlama i tek onda krojim donji sloj. Pri tom, treba voditi računa o tome da svaki krojni deo treba da ima po dva simetrična panela (dok sam bila neiskusnija, dešavalo mi se da iskrojim dva identična panela, pa dobijem dve leve ili desne nogavice).

Striped fabric isn't very difficult to work with, but one has to pay attention to the symmetry of the left and right garment's sides. That's why I always cut  the fabric one layer at time. First I cut one side of both back and front legs, then I lay the cut pieces over the remaining fabric, align all the stripes on both layers, pin the layers together and then cut the lower layer of the fabric.  Be careful when cutting, you need two symmetrical panels (when I was less experienced, I used to cut two identical panels, thus having two left or right legs).

Rešila sam da pojas pantalona naglasim ukoso postavljenim prugama. Kada ukoso krojim dezenirani materijal , uvek ga krojim sloj po sloj. Slično kao sa nogavicama pantalona, iskrojeni deo mi služi kao orijentir za sečenje drugog sloja tkanine. 

Na papirnom kroju prvo iscrtam par paralelnih linija, koje mi određuju pravac pruga na materijalu. Zatim jednu od nacrtanih linija poklapam sa prugama materijala. 

I want to accentuate a waist of the pants by cutting it on bias. When I cut the patterned fabric on bias, I always cut it one layer at time. Just like when cutting pants legs, I use the cut piece as a cutting template for the second layer of fabric.

First I draw several parallel bias lines on the paper pattern. These lines will define direction of the fabric stripes. Then, when cutting the fabric, I align one of the drawn lines with the fabric stripe.

Na kraju, iskrojeni delovi izgledaju savršeno simetrično.

This way, the cut pieces look perfectly symmetric.

Kada želite da postavite pruge tako da formiraju šaru riblje kosti, potrebno je da pažljivo iskrojite susedne delove, koje ćete kasnije spajati.

If you want to arrange the fabric stripes in a herringbone style, you need to carefully cut the adjacent pieces, that you'll join together later.

Susedni delovi obično imaju isti oblik duž linija zajedničkog šava, što se vidi na slici ispod - preklopila sam krojne delove pojasa, naslanjajući naličje jednog na naličje drugog krojnog dela. Zatim sam na gornji krojni deo precrtala linije sa donjeg dela.

The adjacent pieces usually have identically shaped seam line along the side that they share. You can see it on the image below - I overlapped the pattern pieces, putting them with wrong sides together. Then I copied the bias lines from the lower pattern piece to the one laying above.

Kada vratite krojne delove u prvobitni položaj, videćete da iscrtane linije formiraju efekat riblje kosti.

When you put the pattern pieces back to the previous position, you can see that the drawn bias lines form the herringbone effect.

Zatim krojim novi krojni deo. Ovde je bitno da pruge materijala poklopite sa odgovarajućom linijom na krojnom delu - u mom slučaju, sa srednjom linijom.

Then I cut a new piece. It's essential to align the fabric stripe with the right bias line drawn on the paper pattern - in my case it's a line drawn in the middle.

Prugaste pantalone, deo 1 / Striped pants, part 1

Dok čekam svog fotografa da uslika TR suknju, pisaću o onome na čemu trenutno radim.

While I'm waiting for my photographer to take pictures of the TR skirt, I'll write about my current project.

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Trenutno šijem drugarici široke prugaste pantalone od trevire. Koristim kroj sa BurdaStyle sajta, Bella pantalone. Kroj sam već isprobala na sebi, praveći varijaciju za sajt, a drugarici su se jako dopale, pa sam joj obećala da ću joj napraviti slične za rođendan.

Ponoviću instrukcije za izmenu kroja, ovaj put i na srpskom.

Da podsetim, izmenjeni kroj izgleda kao na slici ispod. 

I'm currently making a pair of wide pants using a striped fabric. I'm using a pattern from the BurdaStyle site, the Bella pants. I have already tried the pattern, while making the variation for the website and my friend liked them, so I promised her a pair of similar pants for her birthday.

I'll repeat the alteration steps here, this time in Serbian as well.

To remind you, the altered pattern looks as the one displayed on the picture below.

Prekopirajte krojne delove.
Produžite liniju struka i bočnu liniju do tačke gde se one ukrštaju. U daljim koracima ću pravougaoni panel zvati bočni panel.

Trace the pattern pieces.

Extend the waist line and the lateral leg line to the point where they cross. I’ll call the rectangular-shaped panel the Hip panel in further steps.

Odsecite dodatke za opšivke sa dna prednjeg centralnog dela pojasa (5). Zalepite selotejpom pojas za prednji deo nogavice, kao što je prikazano na slici. Namestite delove tako da se markeri na šlicu savršeno poklapaju.

Ispravite bočnu stranu dela pojasa, tako što ćete produžiti liniju džepa na delu nogavice. Izmerite širinu korekcije - rastojanje između originalne bočne linije pojasa i nove linije.

Cut off the seam allowance from the bottom of the waist central front pattern piece (5). Attach the waist pattern piece to the front leg piece, as shown on the picture. Make sure the fly notches on the joined pieces match perfectly.

Straighten the medial side of the waist pattern piece by extending the pocket line of the front leg pattern.  Measure the width of the correction – the length between the original line and a new line. I’ll call this length the Correction width in further text.

Pomerite horizontalnu liniju džepa za 5cm.

Shift the horizontal pocket line up by 5cm.

Nacrtajte džep, trebalo bi da bude 10cm dubok.

Draw the pocket shape. It is 10cm deep.

Precrtajte džep i bočni panel na novi list papira.

Copy the pocket and the hip panel to a new sheet of paper.

Odsecite dodatak za opšivak sa dna prednjeg bočnog dela pojasa (6). Zalepite selotejpom pojas za bočni panel, kao što je prikazano na slici. Nacrtajte liniju paralelnu sa linijom džepa, udaljenu 3cm od nje. Zvaću ovu liniju Linija opšivka džepa u daljem tekstu.

Cut off the seam allowance from the bottom of the waist side front pattern piece (6). Attach the waist pattern piece to the hip panel as displayed on the picture. Draw a line parallel to the pocket line, but 3cm bellow it. I’ll call this line the Facing pocket line.

Popravite unutrašnju stranu bočnog panela - suzite panel za čirinu korekcije.

Adjust the medial side of the hip panel – reduce its width by the Correction width.

Isecite džep duž iscrtane linije opšivka džepa. Dodajte dodatke za opšivke na dnu bočnog panela, kao i na vrhu džepa. Takođe, nacrtajte liniju paralelnu sa unutrašnjom stranom bočnog panela, udaljenu 3cm od nje. Dodajte dodatke za opšivke.

Cut the pocket piece along the Facing pocket line. Add seam allowances to both bottom of the hip panel and to top of the pocket pattern pieces. Additionally, draw a curve parallel to the medial side of the hip panel  distanced 3cm from it. This will be a button closure flap.  Add seam allowance to the flap.

Nacrtajte opšivak bočnog panela, kao što je prikazano na slici.

Draft the hip panel’s facing pattern as shown on the picture. 

Nacrtajte centralni prednji opšivak kao što je prikazano na slici. Obratite pažnju na to da će ovaj deo biti isečen sa pregibom tkanine. Zato, ovaj deo ne bi trebalo da ima dodatak za opšivak duž centralne linije. Ja sam greškom ostavila dodatak za opšivak.

Draft the central front facing as shown on the picture. Note that this piece will be cut on fold. Hence, there should be no SA on the central front seam. I left the SA along the central line by mistake.