Nougat dress #1301 sewalong - Prišijte postavu za haljinu / Sew the lining to the dress

Još malo pa smo kompletirali Nugat haljinu. Ostalo je još da prišijemo postavu za haljinu i da porubimo sve slojeve skuknje. 

U današnjem postu bavićemo se postavom. Postupak koji ću opisati možete primeniti na bilo kojoj haljini bez rukava. Trudila sam se da uslikam što više fotografija, jer je bez njih veoma teško opisati neke od koraka. 

We have almost finished the Nougat dress. We need to sew the lining to the dress and to hem all layers of the skirt
Today we will work on the lining. The procedure I'll show you can be used on any sleeveless dress. I tried to snap a lot of photos, since this process is hard to describe without them.

Postavite lice postave preko lica haljine. Preklopite lepo slojeve duž izreza oko vrata i oko ruku. Špenadlama uhvatite slojeve zajedno.

Lay the lining over the dress with right sides together. Align the layers along the neckline and the armholes. Pin the layers together.

Proštepajte delove zajedno, zaustavljajući šav na par santimetara od linije ramena, kao i od bočnog šava u kom je rajsferšlus.

Sew the pieces together, stopping the stitch a few centimeters away from the shoulder line and from the left side seam, where the zipper is placed.

Opsecite dodatke za šavove duž proštepanih delova, ostavljajući ih široke 0.5 cm. Izendlajte ivice.

Cut off the SAs along the stitched lines, leaving them 0.5 cm (1/3") wide. Serge the raw edges.

Okrenite materijale na lice, izvrćući celu haljinu od iznutra ka spolja.

Turn the dress inside out.

Spojte prednji i zadnji deo haljine duž ramenog šava i raspeglajte šavove.

Sew the shoulder seams on the shell and press the seams open.

Sada spojte prednji i zadnji deo postave duž ramenog šava. Ovde ćete morati da izvrćete delove postave kako biste mogli da napravite šav sa naličja materijala.

Primetite da su i sa spoljne i sa unutrašnje strane svake od bretela haljine ostale rupe u šavu.

Now sea the shoulder seams on the lining. You will need to twist the lining in order to make a stitch on the wrong side of the fabric.

Note that there are unfinished seams left on armholes and neckline.

Izvrnite haljinu od spolja ka unutra, pri tom je izvrćući između dva sloja. Cilj je da izvrnete haljinu tako da možete da priđete ramenom šavu i prošijete preostale šavove.

Flip the dress outside in, by flipping it between the two layers. The goal is to flip the dress so that you can reach the shoulder seam and sew the unfinished seams.

Dakle, izvucite bretelu što više, tako da su haljina i postava postavljene licem ka licu, i prošijte šavove oko otvora za glavu i ruku. Opsecite višak dodataka za šavove i izendlajte ivice.

Pull the shoulder strap as much as you can, having the shell and lining fabrics with right sides together and sew the seams on neckline and armholes. Cut off the extra width of the SAs and serge the seams.

Kada ste kompletirali obe bretele, izvrnite ponovo haljinu, obrćući slojeve ka licu materijala.

When both shoulder are finished, flip the dress again, inside out.

Sada treba da zašijemo postavu za dodatke za šavove duž rajsferšlusa.

Now you need to finish the lining along the zipper.

Otvorite rajsferšlus do kraja. Sa svake strane rajsferšlusa uhvatite postavu za bočni šav uz pomoć špenadli. Pri tom, presavijte ivicu postave na unutra toliko da glava rajsferšlusa ne hvata materijal prilikom zatvaranja. Obeležite na postavi koliko je potrebno da se savije ivica šava.

Open the zipper, and pin the lining to the zipper band. Fold the lining edge inwards so that the zipper head doesn't get caught in the fabric when the zipper closes. Mark the amount of the edge fold on the lining.

Opet izvrnite haljinu, od spolja ka unutra, tako da su postava i haljina okrenute jedna ka drugoj licem ka licu. Špenadlama uhvatite postavu i haljinu duž trake rajsferšlusa, tako da se on nalazi između dva sloja materijala. Proštepajte slojeve zajedno, duž linije obeležene u prethodnom koraku.

Flip the dress once again, outside inwards, having the shell and lining with right sides together. Pin the zipper to the dress along the zipper band, so that the zipper band is sandwiched between the two layers of fabric. Sew the layers together, along the line marked in the previous step.

Presavijte vrh rajferšlusa tako da sloj postave bude unutar pregiba, a sloj haljine sa spoljne strane pregiba. Zaršvite započeti šav duž otvora za ruku, šijući iznad samog graničnika na rajsferšlusu.

Fold the zipper band at the top, so that the lining layer is inside the fold and the shell is outside the fold. Finish the armhole seam, by sewing above the zipper's top tab.

Izvrnite haljinu na lice. Ponovite opisani postupak na drugom kraju rajsferšlusa.

Flip the dress inside out. Repeat the process for the other zipper's side.

Zatvorite rajsferšlus i proverite da li se gornje ivice poklapaju. Prepeglajte bočni šav i sa lica i sa naličja.

Close the zipper and check if the top edges are well aligned. Press the side seam by pressing from both right and wrong side of the dress.

Da biste pričvrstili postavu na mestu kako ne bi virila napolje duž otvora za glavu i ruke, proštepajte zajedno postavu i dodatke za šavove duž ovih otvora, tik uz liniju otvora. Ja to obično radim ručno, sitnim i gotovo neprimetnim bodom, jer mi se on više sviđa od mašinskog boda, a i daje mi mogućnost da priđem čak i onim delovima koji su mašini nepristupačni.

In order to secure the lining from peeking out at the neckline and armholes, you need to edge-stitch the lining to the SAs. I usually do this by hand, using tiny and almost invisible stitches, just because I like it better this way. Also, it gives me an access to some areas that aren't reachable when usgin the sewing machine.

Prepeglajte otvore za glavu i ruke.

Press the armholes and the neckline.

U sledećem postu ćemo porubiti postavu, kao i oba sloja suknje. Još malo i gotovi smo!

We will hem the lining and both layers of the shell in the next post. We're almost done!

Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_29.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-assemble.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_27.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-prisijte.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_23.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-iskrojte.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/4-nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-isecite-i.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nugat-haljina-varijacija-1-nougat-dress.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/07/nougat-dress-variation-3.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/06/nugat-haljina-varijacija-2-nougat-dress.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/12/nugat-haljina-nougat-dress.html