Sew News za October - November 2013 / Sew News for October - November 2013

Dobih pre neki dan novi broj Sew News časopisa, za Oktobar / Novembar 2013, u kom je objavljen moj članak o veoma zanimljivim pantalonama koje sam šila pretprošle godine. Pantalone na pojasu imaju neobičan detalj u vidu revera, a široke nogavice imaju falte koje se otvaraju iznad kolena.

Članak u časopisu daje detaljna uputstva kako da prepravite kroj za klasične pantalone u ovaj kroj.

I got a new issue of Sew News October / November 2013 a couple of days ago, which features my article about a pair of really interesting pants I made back in 2011. The pants have an unusual detail on the waist - lapels, and the wide legs have knife pleats that open above knees.

Evo kako pantalone izgledaju na meni. Moram da priznam, sada kada ih gledam, nisu baš najbolje skrojene, i vidim kako se platno ružno zateže na preponama. To sam mogla i bolje da odradim, ali mislim da mi je u momentu kada sam ih šila najbitnije bilo da dokažem sebi da je ovakav kroj izvodiv i da ja to mogu, nego da podesim pantalone da mi stoje savršeno. Šteta, jer su baš šik! Ovde možete videti serijal postova koje sam pisala dok sam modelovala i šila pantalone.

Here's how the pants look on me. I have to admit, now that I look at them, they don't fit me well and there's a lot of pulling going on at the crotch. I should've fixed this, but I think that at the moment of sewing, my major concern was to prove myself that this pattern is doable, and that I can draft it, rather than to fit them perfectly. Too bad, they're quite fancy! You can read a series of posts I wrote while drafting the pattern and sewing here.

Pantalone sa reverima, deo 3. / Pants with a collar, part 3

Evo kako izgledaju pantalone. Gledano iz daleka, prilično su klasične. I poprilično duboke - ne pamtim kada su mi noge izgledale ovako duge. Falte na nogavicama ih dodatno proširuju, pa je osećaj u njima kao da nosim dugu suknju.

Here's how the pants look. Viewed from afar, they look quite classical. And quite high waisted - I can't remember when was the last time my legs looked that long. The pleats on legs additionally widen them, and the feeling is as if I'm wearing a skirt.

A kad se približite, vidi se rever na neočekivanom mestu!

And, when you come closer, you can see a collar on an unexpected place!

Poređenja radi, evo kako skica izgleda. Odustala sam od dugmića - bili su mi suvišni i čak preteran detalj, iako na crtežu odlično idu uz model.

Just for the sake of comparison, here's how the sketch looks. I dropped out of buttons - they were too much, even though they looked good on the drawing.

 I evo još jedne slike, malo da vas nasmeje ;-)

And, just for fun, here's one more pic ;-)

U međuvremenu sam sašila još jednu zanimljivu košulju, a druga je skoro gotova, ali o njima ću pisati za koji dan.

In the meanwhile, I made an interesting shirt and another one that's almost done, but I'll post about them in a few days.

Pantalone sa reverima, deo 2. / Pants with a collar, part 2

Sinoć i danas sam vredno krojila, fircala, peglala i šila, i evo dokle sam stigla. Pantalone su skoro gotove. Mislim da treba malo da ih proširim na bokovima (a taman sam ih suzila!). Osim toga, treba da obradim pojas i da ih porubim. Ne izgledaju loše...

Last night and today I cut, basted, pressed and sewed hard, and here's where I am at the moment. The pants are almost done. I think I need to widen them a bit at hips (and I've just narrowed them down!). Other than that, I need to finish the waistband and to hem them. I think they don't look bad at all...

Usput, Leakala sajt nudi besplatne krojeve u veličinama 44 i 46 do kraja ovog meseca.

BTW, Lekala website offers free patterns in sizes 44 and 46 by the end of the month.

Pantalone sa reverima / Pants with a collar

Nakon posta o iskustvu koje sam imala tokom kursa o modnom dizajnu, počela sam intenzivno da razmišljam o tome da materijalizujem neke od svojih ideja. Pantalone sa reverima su mi bile prve na tapetu.

After I posted about my experience with the fashion design course, I started thinking intensively about materializing some of my ideas. Pants with a collar are first on my list.

Posle intentivnog mozganja o tome kako da napravim kroj za iste, reših da napravim test kroj. Koristila sam kroj za Bella pantalone, i podosta ga izmenila ne bih li dobila željeni detalj na pojasu. Evo kako test kroj izgleda. Nabori na preponama su posledica toga što mi je test kroj malo tesan, ali to ću srediti tokom šivenja. 

Planiram da koristim divnu sivu vunu koju imam, a koja je kupljena pre nego što sam ja rođena, sa planom da se sašije odelo mom ocu. Držite mi palčeve, večeras se bacam na šivenje! :-)

After intense brainstorming on how to make a pattern for these pants, I made a muslin. I used the Bella pattern from Burda Style, and altered it a lot to get the collar detail on the waist. Here's how the muslin looks. The wrinkles on the crotch are there because the muslin was a bit tight, but I'll fix this while sewing.

I'll use a gorgeous gray wool I have in my stash, that was bought before I was even born, and it was supposed to become a suit for my dad. Keep your fingers crossed for me, I'm gonna sew tonight! :-)