Šanel kaputić iz 2009. godine / A Chanel coat made back in 2009

O ovom kaputiću sam već pisala, u grubim crtama, tokom izazova Me-Made-May 2011, postove možete pročitati ovde i ovde. Kaput sam sašila 2009. godine, pre nego što sam počela da pišem blog, a nastao je tokom Go Chanel or Go Home tematskog šivenja - globalnoj "igri" u kojoj učestvuje mnoštvo ljudi, sa zadatkom da šiju određeni odevni predmet, primenjujući zadate tehnike ili vodeći se određenim propozicijama organizatora igre.  

Tokom tematskog šivenja, organizator igre i ostali iskusniji učesnici vode ostale i manje iskusne kroz sve faze šivenja, i nude mnoštvo informacija o krojačkim tehnikama, prepravkama kroja i izboru šnita i materijala. U svakom slučaju, mislim da je tematsko šivenje fenomenalan način da se nauče nove cake i isprobaju nove tehnike.

Ovakve igre sam primetila samo kod inostranih blogera, i žao mi je što u regionu ne organizujemo ništa slično. Možda je vreme da to promenimo?

I wrote before rather briefly about this coat, during the Me-Made-May 2011 challenge; you can read the related posts here and here. I made the coat back in 2009, before I started writing a blog, as part of the Go Chanel or Go Home sewalong.

Tema igre je bila Šanel jakna i šivenje iste primenom posebne tehnike koju je osmislila i lansirala Koko Šanel lično. Ova tehnika je prilično komplikovana i vremenski zahtevna, jer se mnogo šije ručno, a veoma se razlikuje od svih metoda konstrukcije jakne koje sam do tada imala prilike da vidim. U svakom slučaju, ovo je za mene bio izazov i način da naučim nešto novo (a ja baš volim da učim - ne zovu me džabe štreber!).

Tokom igre sam se prvi put oprobala i u pisanju bloga, jer su svi učesnici bili zamoljeni da podele sa drugima informacije o sebi i procesu šivenja. Sve postove igre možete pročitati ovde, a ako vas zanimaju samo moji, pratite ovaj link. 

Obviously, the sewalong was all about sewing a Chanel jacket, using Coco Chanel's sewing technique. The technique is rather complicated and time consuming since there's a lot of hand sewing and it differs a lot from other jacket construction techniques I had a chance to see before. Anyway, this was a great challenge for me and a great way to learn something new (and I love learning, I'm such a nerd!).

During the sewalong I tried blogging for the first time, since all the participants were asked to write about themselves and to document the sewing process. You can read all the posts of the sewalong here, and if you're interested to read just mine, follow this link.

Danas ću ukratko opisati moj proces šivenja, od izbora kroja i materijala, do samog završetka kaputa. 

Zapala su mi bila za oko dva kroja iz Burde, prikazana na slikama ispod.

I'll briefly describe the sewing process, from pattern and fabric choice to finishing the coat.

Two BWOF pattern caught my eye, shown on the pictures below.

BWOF 8/2006, #108C

BWOF 10/2005, #116

Ja sam krojeve ukombinovala u novi, prikazan na slici ispod. Koristila sam kao osnovu kroj za kaput, iz Burde 10/2005, i promenila ga tako da odgovara crtežu.

I combined the two patterns into a new one, displayed on the sketch below. I used the coat pattern from BWOF 10/2005 as a base and altered it to match the sketch.

Šanel tehnika zahteva korišćenje buklea za jaknu i lagane svile za postavu. Naravno, ukrasna traka po obodu jakne i rukava je zaštitni znak Šanela. Ja sam, umesto buklea, koristila neki materijal koji sam imala na zalihama, koji je navodno bio vuneni. Kasnije sam otkrila da materijal ima dosta sintetike u sebi, i da nije baš najbolji izbor za Šanel tehniku. Zato je na kraju moj kaput sašiven korišćenjem klasične tehnike konstrukcije jakni i kaputa, umesto Šanel tehnike, ali sam, čitajući uputstva ostalih učesnika ipak mnogo naučila! Ukrasna traka je od pletene vune, i koštala me je kao Svetog Petra kajgana :). Ali, toliko je bila lepa i tako se dobro uklopila sa materijalom, da nisam mogla da joj odolim.

The Chanel technique asks for boucle on the shell and light silk for the lining. And, off course, the trim band along the jacket's edges. Instead of boucle, I used a fabric I had in my stash, that was supposedly wool. Later I discovered the fabric had a lot of synthetic fibers in it and it wasn't a good choice for the Chanel technique. Therefore I made the coat using the standard jacket / coat construction technique, but by reading posts and comments of other participants I learned a lot! The trim band was made of braided wool and it cost me a real fortune, but it was gorgeous and matched the fabric so well I just couldn't resist it.

Svi delovi kaputa su ojačani lepljivim platnom, koje je dalo čvrstinu inače mekom i mlitavom materijalu.

All the panels were enforced by fusible interfacing, which gave some structure to the soft fabric.

Džepovi su ručno prišiveni za kaput pre nego što je dodata postava.

The pockets were sewn on by hand before the lining was attached to the coat.

Svilena postava ima na sredini leđa veliku faltu, koja daje komociju prilikom kretanja. Ukrasna traka je ručno prišivena za obod kaputa kada je isti kompletno sašiven. Umesto dugmića, prišila sam metalne kopčice - žabice - sa unutrašnje strane kaputa.

The silk lining had a big pleat at the center back, to add more ease. The trim band was sewn on by hand once the coat was finished. Instead of buttons I used metal frogs which I sewed on by hand inside the coat.

Kaput je, iako nisam primenila Šanel tehniku, ispao odličan. U vreme kada sam ga napravila, bila sam prilično uzbuđena, jer je tada predstavljao moj najbolje sašiveni komad odeće. Mislim da sam osetila posebnu potrebu da napravim savršen kaput jer sam se našla pod lupom veoma iskusnih šnajderki, a ja sam veoma takmičarski nastrojena, i nisam htela da zaostajem za drugima. Dodatni trud sam uložila na detalje, poboljšanje kroja i na uklapanje delova, što je bila prava lekcija za mene, iako sam pre tog kaputa imala pozamašno krojačko iskustvo. Mislim da sam u poslednjih sedam godina mnogo unapredila i poboljšala svoje šivenje, a veliku zaslugu u tome imaju upravo internet i svet blogera.

Even though I didn't use the Chanel technique, the coat turned out perfect. At the time I made it I was really excited with it, since it was the best sewn garment I had ever made. I think I felt a pressure to make a perfect coat because I was surrounded by a lot of very experienced dressmakers, and as I'm very competitive I didn't want to be left behind. I paid special attention to details, fit and construction, which made me learn a lot, even though I had a solid sewing experience behind me before that. I think I have improved my sewing skills a lot in the last seven years, thanks to the internet. sewing community and bloggers.