Showing posts with label sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing. Show all posts

Apr 20, 2015

Ironing board shelf, Burda magazines and a scanner


I've been having problems with insufficient space in our tiny apartment recently. Burda Style mags are specifically troublesome, as their number keeps increasing, while reducing the free space, so the mags are spread all around the apartment, making a true chaos. When we moved in three years ago I took with me only a minor portion of my sewing magazines collection, and left the majority at my parent's. These magazines are never used and I am annoyed by it as I know there are numerous fantastic patterns that just aren't reachable to me.

So I've been thinking for a while about how to fix this problem and finally came to a conclusion that having the patterns in a digital format would be a space saver. That of course meant I had to scan my collection of around 150 issues of sewing magazines. Having them scanned in a copyshop would too expensive, so I invested in a scanner / printer determined to do the hard-work myself.

As it appears, the scanner is a handy place for Djole to take a nap.

Stepalica: Scanning Burda Style magazines

So I started with an endless scanning of the magazines, page by page. I scan the photos of the models, and the workbooks, omitting the articles written in German (we import German issues of Burda and translate to Serbian only the workbooks), and the ads. I keep the pattern sheets in paper format and stack them into big folders. Along with each pattern sheet I put a cover page of the corresponding magazine, which makes it much easier to browse through the patterns.

One big folder can stack pattern sheets from 24 magazines, meaning that I can zip two years worth magazines into space that's six times smaller. I think that is a significant space saver.

Stepalica: Burda Style pattern sheets

Each magazine is saved to a PDF file, and I make an additional file that stores the technical drawings of all the models from all the magazines, sorted by months and years. This makes browsing through the patterns much easier for me, and the pattern sheets are finally well sorted and easy to reach.

I've completed approximately 1/3 of the job, as I scanned around 60 issues. I've been very busy! I can't explain how anxious I am to sort the whole collection of the magazines. While I've been scanning the pages, I noticed so many gorgeous patterns that I want to make as soon as possible. Some of those I haven't noticed before, but some are the ones I have been wanting to sew from the moment I saw them. 

Stepalica: Burda Style, technical drawings

Even though scanning reduced the space the mags were taking, I still had to find a place to store the folders with pattern sheers. When you live in an apartment as tiny as ours is (it has only 30 square meters ~ 323 square feet), each piece of furniture has to be multipractical. So I decided to use a tiny corner where my ironing board was. Instead of having an ironing board with foldable legs, I decided to make it an ironing shelf, where the board would be placed on top of a book shelf which would store all my sewing literature. The shelf had to be custom made. By ourselves (D. and myself).

Stepalica: Ironing board shelf

D. designed it and I assisted while constructing, so this weekend we made the ironing shelf. We put it on big wheels so that the shelf can be easily moved around if needed. Considering this is our first time doing carpentry, the shelf isn't perfect, but I am very pleased with how it turned out. I am already thinking of other pieces of furniture I would like to make for my sewing nook.

To illustrate the ratio between the space the magazines take compared to the folders: one box in the shelf can store 24 magazines, the same number of mags (or the pattern sheets) fits into a single folder.

Stepalica: Ironing board shelf

So, how do you store your sewing magazines? Do you have a special system that makes handling the patterns easier for you? How big is your collection of sewing magazines?

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May 16, 2014

Sewing Indie Month - Julia of Garmenter as a guest on Stepalica


I am thrilled to introduce you to Julia, a talented designer that stands behind the blog Garmenter, which has a rather interesting business concept, the one you won't see often. You see, Garmenter sells basic sloper patterns, which can be used for further pattern alterations and making your custom designs. Moreover, the patterns aren't printed on a paper, but on a muslin fabric, so that you can directly cut the pattern from the fabric and make the sloper according to your measurements. Once the pattern is fitted and adjusted to your body, you can use it as a basis for drafting your own patterns, or you can follow the great instructions given on the Garmenter site, that guide you through drafting various models. So, not only do you get the sloper pattern, but you also get great pattern drafting lessons and help with fitting and adjusting the pattern.

The Madeleine dress and i Aleksa skirt are just some of the many models you can find on Julia's blog, so I advise you to visit her website and learn more about her ideas and perhaps learn some new techniques.



Julia was kind to share with you a great tutorial for making a mini pleated skirt, which can be made wihtout a pattern! She says she was inspired by my Zlata skirt, which makes me feel flattered.

Zlata Inspired “no-pattern” Skirt Tutorial

As a part of Sewing Indie Month, I have the honor of crashing wonderful AnaJan’s blog for the day with a tutorial of my choice! So I thought I’d do a very simple skirt tutorial inspired by Stepalica’s Zlata Skirt, but for which no pattern is needed.

All you’ll need is about ½ m of a somewhat thick knitted fabric (I searched and searched for a good neoprene fabric, but eventually had to give up), matching thread of course, 3 cm wide elastic to go around your waist, and all the usual bits and bobs necessary for a sewing project.



Steps to Follow:

1. Cut Your Rectangle
This whole skirt starts off from a simple rectangle. The size of this rectangle is determined by 2 measurements:
  • The waist measurement (x), which is where you want the waistline of your skirt to be placed, minus around 3 cm to account for the stretchiness of the knitted fabric, and plus 30 cm for the fullness in the bottom. It’s these 30 cm we are gonna remove with pleats later on.
  • And the skirt length (y), which is simply the length between the waistline and the place on your thigh you want your skirt to end, plus 4 cm for the hemline seam allowance.

2. Distribute the Pleats
The job of the pleats in this design is to remove the 30 cm we added on the last step, but only around the waist, and in an evenly distributed manner around the waistline. In this case, the fold of our pleats will be of 3 cm, giving us 10 pleats to work with. But before we do that, we need to figure out the distance between each pleat, and for that we need our good ol’ friend x from last step. All you have to do is divide x by the amount of pleats we’re doing (10 pleats, that is), and you have the distance between the pleats (or what we hereafter will be calling “z”). So: x / 10 = z. Now, lets put the pleats in place!
  • Since this is just one big rectangle, it will only have 1 seam holding it together, and that seam is the CB seam (“center back”). This seam however, will be placed between 2 pleats, so that the distribution of these isn’t affected. This means that on each end of the rectangle we will begin with a half z (or “z/2”) rather than a whole z. This way it will be like a whole z once the CB seam is sewn together.
  • As we determined before, begin with a z/2 on one side of the rectangle. Follow that with a pleat of 3 cm, and then continue with a full z. Continue this way until you have 10 pleats, and end it with another z/2.
  • In the end, the distribution should be something like this:
    z/2 , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z , 3 , z/2

* I simply used pins to mark where each pleat should go.

3. Mark the Pleats’ Length
To know where the pleats end, or in other words where you should stop sewing the pleats closed, sew a horizontal basting stitch between 12-15 cm from the waistline.

4. Press and Pin the Pleats
On you ironing table, press each pleat shut following your distribution from step 2, and pin them in place as you go along.


5. Sew and Press the Pleats
Once all the pleats are pressed and pinned, stitch vertical straight seams from the beginning of the pleat to the basting stitch. Of course remembering to backstitch at both the beginning and ending of you seam. Here you can choose what kind of pleats you want.
You can either press them as they are toward one side or the other, or do like me and press them open like box pleats. Anyway you choose, fasten each pleat with a pin as you press them.


6. Attach Elastic to the Waistline
Since we’re working with knitted fabric, we need to somehow make sure that our skirt stays put around our waist and doesn’t just slide down our thighs. This we’ll do with some trustworthy elastic. So, take a wide elastic band and attach it to the right side of the waistline using a serger or overlock, or just a good old zigzag stitch.


7. Close the CB Seam, Turn, and “Stitch-in-the-Ditch”
Before we finish up on the waistband, close and press the CB seam using the same stitch as with the elastic band. And for the waistband, there are just 2 steps to follow.
  • First, turn the elastic band toward the inside of the skirt, and fasten it with one pin between each pleat.
  • Second, from the outside of the skirt “stitch-in-the-ditch” on every pleat seam to fasten the elastic, without it showing on the outside. “Stitch-in-the-ditch” means that you carefully sew 2 or more layers of fabric together by carefully stitching exactly along a seam.

9. Finish the Hemline

And all that’s left now is the hemline, where an invisible stitch would be the classiest way to go I think. Otherwise, the way to do knit hemlines usually is a twin stitch, which gives a more sporty finish.


And voilá!

Hope you enjoy, and happy Sewing Indie Month!
/Julia, from www.garmenter.com

May 1, 2014

Sewing Indie Month


Dear readers, I wish you a happy Labor day! I'm not sure if this international holiday is being celebrated around the world as it is in Serbia - traditionally we do not work during the holiday, instead we use the sunny spring days to overeat with the barbecue meat :). I decided to join the holidays with a vacation time and visit the seaside in Montenegro. Hopefully the weather will be warm enough for sunbathing if not for swimming in the sea.

May will be a month with lots of happenings, and hopefully an interesting one. You see, this month I have joined the forces with numerous indie pattern companies from all over the world, to organize a very interesting event called Sewing Indie Month. We will promote our work and the work of our colleagues, we'll share our lives, patterns, and techniques with you, we'll teach you pattern drafting and show you how to remodel some of our patterns.

Mari Miller, the owner of Seamster Patterns is the brain behind this event and she did an amazing job organizing it. Thanks to her we all got to get to know each other better and promote our designs. So, check out the Seamster Patterns to get the details of the Sewing Indie Month.

banner_sewingindie

Along with 21 indie pattern companies, we have four well known bloggers who will stand by our side, with their great ideas and skill assets. Laura - Lilacs and Lace, Jenny - Cashmerette, Rhonda - Rhonda's Creative Life and Wanett - Sown Brooklyn will host four sewalongs with different themes, which will guide you through sewing our models, they'll show you their interpretations of the garments made after our patterns, and give away the prizes we have prepared for the participants. So, if you're up for a challenge, follow the Sewing Indie Month, participate in a sewalong theme that suits you the most, submit your finished creation, and perhaps you'll win a prize!

sewing indie month sewalong rules

Guest blogging at Lolita Patterns

Within the Sewing Indie Month I'll pair up with four other designers - I will introduce you to two of my colleagues, who will guest blog on Stepalica, and I will guest post on the blogs of two lovely ladies.

Amity of Lolita Patterns and I paired up to teach you a bit about pattern drafting. Lolita Patterns specializes in drafting professional office appropriate patterns that are influenced by Japanese Lolita style elements. Her designs are feminine, yet very bold and a bit eccentric. Lolita Patterns provide a wide range of sizes and variations to original design.

Just take a look at this lovely purple lace Gunmetal dress. The ruched sides and the corsage inspired lacing at the front are obviously inspired by cosplay and Gothic Lolita, but Amity made them subtle which makes this dress great for both casual and formal occasions.


The Sugar Plum dress is perfect for an office, but I can see it styled up for a formal occasion such as wedding or a cocktail.


My guest blogging at Lolita Patterns  will show you how to draft a pattern for a rather unusual skirt. I got an idea for this skirt from a commercial for a YSL bag. The bag itself didn't impress me as much as the skirt from the photo did. Just look at those lines - such an ingenious design! My interpretation is slightly different, but I kept the basic design of it.


At first glance is looks like a basic pleated skirt, but take a closer look at it and you'll notice it's a skirt with a twist, or should I say - a twisted skirt. The knife pleats are slightly angled, thus making the twist effect.
This kind of skirt is perfect for office and work environment, but it could look quite casual if made from denim, twill or cotton. It is suitable for plain fabrics or those with floral or abstract prints, but I'd advise you to avoid using plaid and striped fabrics, since those can be challenging for matching.
A pattern for this skirt is really easy to make, especially if you have a pattern for a basic pencil skirt - with just a few cuts you can transform it into this lovely and unusual skirt. To read the tutorial, visit Lolita Patterns blog.
Jewelry made by Anya - Studio Artesania






So, if you haven't already checked Lolita Patterns, I invite you to take a look at my tutorial, by following this link! Let us know what you think, and if you liked the instructions, please share them!

Apr 21, 2014

6 Reasons Why I Avoid Custom Sewing


Whenever I tell someone (usually women) I sew, I instantly spot that specific look in the eyes of my interlocutor, which demands (no, it doesn't even ask) me to sew her at least one garment. Some assume they'd pay me, some hope I'd do it easily, quickly and with no fee, but some don't even think my work is worth being paid for.
Most often my reply is - "I don't do custom sewing". However, this response confuses others, some even get offended by it, taking it personally, as if I refused to help them.


When I was much younger, an advanced beginner in sewing, I tried custom sewing; my first pocket money was earned this way, by sewing a skirt or a dress here and there for my friends. And then I faced a total debacle - I sewed a pair of pants for a friend, which she didn't like at all. She paid me unwillingly and never asked me to sew for her again; on the other side, I was left with a bitter taste in my mouth. That's when I learned a valuable lesson about this trade - custom sewing was in no way equal to sewing for myself.

Since then I've been avoiding custom sewing, and when I accept to sew for someone, I usually charge it a lot. And I tend to sew only those garments I find interesting and challenging, while rejecting everything else.

Here's why:
  1. When sewing for myself, I have the right to make a mistake, ruin my fabric, give up because I don't like the garment I'm sewing, or it doesn't fit right, or the fabric doesn't behave as I expected it to, etc. When sewing for a client, there is no such option - the client expects her clothes to be done in arranged time frame, to fit perfectly and to be sewn without a flaw. "I can't" or "I'm not in a mood" are out of the option.
  2. When sewing for myself, I know exactly what I want to make, which type of garment is flattering on me and which fabric to use to make it work. When sewing for a client, there's always a possibility I didn't understand her well, the garment's style doesn't suit her, or the fabric is not appropriate for the garment she wants. This issue can be resolved if the client brings me a picture of the same or similar garment, and if I have an option to advise her on what type of fabric to look for.
  3. When sewing for myself, I know how to make the garment fit me because I know by body well - I know I need to raise the waistline, crop a jacket, make a SBA, etc. When sewing for a client, I don't know her body features well, and I don't know what to pay attention to. Everything I do on her body is my first time and every detail is equally important. And I am not a dressmaker with a long experience in custom sewing, so I can oversee some items. This issue can be solved by making a muslin or toile that would serve for fixing all the problems and fitting adjustments before cutting the fashion fabric. 
  4. When sewing for myself, I sew only when I'm in the right mood, when I'm not tired and when I feel creative. When sewing for a client, I sew when I have to, in a limited time and with no true motivation. And, I'm afraid there's no help for this problem!
  5. When sewing for myself, I can wear the garment after all the effort that's been put into it. When sewing for a client, all my work goes into someone else's hands. The only satisfaction I get is the client's smiling face.
  6. When sewing for myself no, I'll overwrite this, as I was going to write about garment alterations and fixing. I almost never fix my old clothes! I don't like doing it, as I'm guided by an idea that I would rather make something from the scratch than fix an existing garment. I don't want to change broken zippers, shorten pants, mend jeans or sleeves, widen or narrow down skirts and jackets or change the torn lining. The clients, relatives and neighbors usually ask for these small fixes, and think they can pay me with a chocolate.
    However, I do make exceptions in some cases, when the people asking for a favor from me are the ones I find worth the effort. I won't ever reject them, even though I detest fixing clothes. But I'll say no to all others without a problem.
I think I've listed enough reasons why I avoid to custom sew for clients. However, I do make an exception once in awhile, which has lead me to meeting some really nice people, making some great creations, and got me spotted by one of the very interesting companies.

Štepalica: The VLISCO dress
photography: Nikola Zamurović

So I'm interested to know - do you do custom sewing? Do you generally enjoy in this kind of work, and do you think custom sewing is payable?

Related posts

Apr 14, 2014

Where did I learn to sew?


"Where did you learn to sew?" I've been asked this question by both - the ones who sew and the ones who'd like to learn to sew. Those who sew but aren't very satisfied by their skills and would like to improve their knowledge often do not know where to start from. The ones who'd like to learn to sew are even more confused - they expect perfect results from the start.

Stepalica: Where did I learn to sew?

In my case, the truth is I was self-taught. I started sewing twenty years ago, during a summer holiday when I was in a high school. I was 15 and I had no clue what I was doing. The following thirteen years I sewed by a hunch and learned from my own mistakes. In time I got neater and better, but I still made some serious mistakes while sewing.

I didn't know how to alter patterns to make the clothes fit me nicely - the pants were always sitting too high on the waist at front, while at the back they sat too low due to my protruding rear. Also, most of my garments simply screamed - hand made. I didn't pay enough attention to details - I omitted sewing vent pockets on all the garments, since I didn't know how to make them nicely. If I wanted to have the pockets, I would disguise them under a large pocket flap so that it wouldn't show how lousy they were made. I didn't bother making belts, belt loops, epaulettes and similar details that make a jacket look rich and professionally made. And even if I would force myself to make them I would do it sloppily.

I was guided by a principle - "however it turns out, it's OK". I wasn't aware of the fact that I could control the pattern and alter it according to my body. I was a rather fast and nervous seamstress, speeding up to finish a garment in order to wear it as soon as possible. I avoided fixing the errors I had made while sewing, thinking that pressing would fix the slight pulling by a lining or flatten the gathers that I made by a mistake. It was a big mistake, typical for most of the beginners!

And then 2008 happened, a year that was really important for my sewing career and skills. First I became a member of Burda Style website, where you can find a section with tutorials about various sewing techniques, which I browsed through for months. I think I stopped visiting the website on a daily basis only three years ago; until then I would spend several hours a day browsing through the numerous pics of other people's creations and looking for interesting information. One of the ways of learning was to look at creations, analyze details and compare the used techniques with the ones I was using. The other way of learning was, and still is, trying out new techniques and practicing.

Soon afterwards I discovered a whole new world of sewing related blogs, where I found a lot of information and tutorials about sewing, with lots of details, pics and illustrations and step-by-step descriptions.

The first blog I discovered was Laura's sewing room, where I found several techniques about sewing shirts as well as great instructions for sewing a lining to a jacket. Unfortunately, Laura is not as active with her blogging as she used to be, since she became a mom, but I do hope she'll start writing again soon, since the woman has a lot to show.

After that I discovered Tany and her blog Couture et Tricot. I've learned a lot from her - she writes very detailed posts about sewing and she sews impeccably. I think her blog influenced me the most and was an inspiration to me when I started Stepalica - I wanted to show the same level of details and perfection in my work and on my blog. Tany has also been less active in the last two years as she got a baby, but she's started showing off her new creations recently, which is great.

Then it was Bunny and the blog La Sewista! I was amazed by the smocking and her attention to details. I think it was her blog where I first saw a collar finished by a bias band. Bunny frequently sews gorgeous dresses for her grand daughters, which are works of art. I have to say I was really honored when my blog caught her attention and when she started following me and commenting my work. A great thing is Bunny posts frequently and displays her new creations.

I am very fond of Sigrid's blog. I got ideas for some of my creations from her blog more than once. Sigrid also writes useful tutorials, and she used to run a separate blog that featured numerous tutorials collected from various sewing blogs.

I follow a lot more blogs from which I still learn, and I'll list those that have made the greatest impression on me and that I've learnt the most from. These are the blogs I that inspire me, some give me new and fresh ideas for sewing, the others give me inspiration for writing my own tutorials.
Along with the blogs, I follow Sew News and Threads magazines' websites and I surf through Pinterest a lot, looking for interesting techniques and instructions, that I pin to a separate board of mine.

So, these are my sources of knowledge and inspiration. I've given you a lot of recommendations and sources of information to start from.

Have on mind that sewing is, like any other craft, all about the practice - the more you use a certain technique, the better you'll get at doing it. Finally you'll master sewing well enough to perfectly execute a technique you've never used before, but have only read about it. It happens to me all the time, and with every new method I (successfully) execute, my self-confidence raises. 

I'm sorry I don't have the garments I made ten or more years ago, to show you how differently they were made compared to the newer ones. Of course, the new garments are much neater and prettier.

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Feb 3, 2014

Do you sew by the book?


A few days ago a reader wrote to me, saying the technique I wrote about the other day wasn't in accordance with the RTW garment construction method. Along with the comment, she gave me an insight on how the technique is properly executed. I'm thankful to the reader, as I learned a new method (I might even write that tutorial as well), but I didn't see a problem with the method I had shown you and that I've been using for years.
This made me to think - whether I sewed by the book and if that really mattered. 

sewing-by-the-book

If you follow my blog on a regular basis, you know I'm self-taught with sewing experience of twenty years. I learned the basics myself using the trial and error method. When I discovered the sewing community on the internet, I started absorbing as much information as I could find (did you know I actively followed more than 200 sewing blogs?), reproducing the things I saw, collecting ideas and learning tricks of the trade, but most of the stuff I figured out myself. And to be honest, I'm proud of that. Along the way I developed some techniques that might be unique and unconventional, but I've noticed these techniques suit me, I find it easier to sew using them or I find the clothes more comfortable that way. Therefore, that's my experience and everything I've been showing you here on the blog has been a result of my work, hence my best practice. Off course, you're free to not adopt my techniques and discard them if you think I'm doing things the wrong way.

I'm always keen on learning something new, especially if it's related to sewing. So, be assured I'll remember everything I saw or read related to this subject, because I'm really interested in it.

However, I think I already have enough experience to evaluate whether some technique or its variation is applicable or not, as well as to tell whether it's absolutely necessary or it gives some room for a different interpretation. Therefore, there are techniques I find absolutely irreplaceable, while for the others I think they leave some room for a different interpretation.

Generally speaking, I think that every creative hobbyst needs to experiment in order to get to know the medium he / she is working with, the tools he / she is using, and to find the techniques that suit him / her best; and I don't think it matters which hobby we are talking about. Along the way, the hobbyst breaks some rules, but the practice and experience lead him / her to a proper way of doing things, as he / she learns on his / her mistakes and discovers better and easier ways of accomplishing the same effect. As a result, the innovation can happen this way. Just remember the revolution Coco Chanel brought into garment construction...

I know some people who make some beautiful garments, but who have never used sewing patterns, nor have learned to draft them. They think of sewing as of a game and an adventure, and as of a way of expressing their creativity. Setting them some sewing rules to follow would mean stealing all the pleasure and excitement that sewing usually brings them.
It's clear I can't completely compare myself with such people, since my blog has some educational content and it's my duty to make sure everything I show you here is correct. However, I keep the right to apply and transfer the method that I find logical, practical and that I have used before; the method might or might not be in accordance with the RTW garment construction methods.

So, I'm curious to know - do you sew by the book or by your feel? If you follow some rules, where did you learn them?


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Jan 10, 2014

A call for pattern testers!

Dear readers, I need your help finishing my new pattern. I'm in a process of finalizing a pattern that will be launched for sale soon. However, I'd like to test it to be sure all the pattern pieces were drafted well. Off course, the pattern has already been tested in several sizes, but you can't go wrong with testing it thoroughly, right?
If you're in a mood for sewing a new pattern, I would appreciate your help!

* za verziju teksta na srpskom, pogledajte ovde.

What do I have to do?


I need you to make a garment in your size. I would send you the pattern and sewing instructions (all in PDF format) via email. The pattern needs to be printed (on a A4 or Letter paper format) and taped together to get the pattern sheet. You would provide the fabric and print the pattern yourself. After sewing, you would fill in a short questionary about the pattern. Optionally, I would appreciate if you could send me pictures of your finished garment, so I could feature them on Stepalica.

How experienced in sewing do I have to be?


The pattern I'm making is appropriate for those with intermediate sewing skills, and for the advanced ones. The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions, which are in English. Along with the instructions, you can always call me for help.

How much time do I have for sewing?


You'll have two weeks (14 days) for sewing, from the moment I send you the pattern. Since the pattern isn't a very complicated one, I expect this would be enough time for a person who has an average sewing experience. 

What are the available pattern sizes?


I draft all the patterns in seven sizes, which correspond the sizes Burda Style magazine has. The pattern is given in sizes 32 - 44.

What is the garment type the pattern is for?


I will reveal the garment type and all the details about the model in a private email. At the moment, I wouldn't want to spoil an element of surprise. If you apply as a potential tester, I will send you the technical drawing of the pattern as well as some pics of the finished garment, along with fabric recommendations and amounts of fabric and notions required for it. This way, you'll have an option to see the model and decide if it's for you (regarding your style preferences and skill level).

How do I apply?


If you want to apply as a pattern tester, please send me an email at anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com, with Pattern testing in subject. Please write a couple of words about yourself, for how long you have been sewing, and how you rank your sewing skills (beginner, intermediate, advanced, expert).

I'm expecting your emails! If you have any further questions, that I omitted in the post, please write them down, I'd like to hear your thoughts and concerns. Thank you in advance!